Originally Posted by Steven_Spinosa
I suppose I could be messy and stupid here, but on a welded one, I could always remove the power tube tip, spacer, and O-ring. Now that I can sorta see the back wall of the air chamber, I could use a syringe (turkey baster?) full of pre-mixed JB weld and slather it on the walls of the air chamber, rotating the whole time. This would eventually narrow the space, but then I could always goof and fill the inlet by mistake.
A smart guy would stick a well waxed and tapered plastic plug down the gas passage hole so any epoxy would not flow down that way.
Also if you're just trying to fill in the volume there's no need to use glue. A plastic block that just sits in there would do the same job and be far more easily removable later on. Just don't listen to the rattles when you shake it or make it so there's some sort of light spring to hold it in place over to one side or something like that.
But won't the regulator on the rear still regulate the CO2 from the 12gm down to the normal pressure? Or will the fact that the later regs were not CO2 friendly ensure that the full pressure zooms on through? Or can you just remove the regulator valve pin from the rear and replace the piston to seal it and get full pressure through to the front?