I have decided to tackle my loaner/girlfriend's gun as a project. I don't want to do anything too extreme, I just want to satisfy my current desire to tinker and make the gun easier to use (and possibly perform better).
Instead of proposing solutions only, I will outline some 'issues' I have and maybe someone can lend their opinion.
#1 - People have gotten their fingers pinched by the bolt when they cock the marker (on the field, if the bolt does not re-cock fully) and it slips on them. I really like the JAM bolt, so I would like to convert it to top cocking. Is there any way to mill a slot in the top of the body and use a longer hammer pin so it extends out the top of the body? Maybe even make it be able to slide out so you can remove the bolt?
#2 - I don't like the cotter pin setup it currently has to remove the lower internals. Can a Cocker bolt pin work or be made to work? I am thinking that you might be able to open up both the hole in the body and the groove in the rear cap and use a spring loaded bolt pin.
#3 - Trigger work. Is there any way to make the trigger a bit lighter/snappier? Or is this just playing around with trigger springs and stops?
#4 - With regards to the front block and 'volumizer', is there any benefit to using a larger chamber? The one it has was taken from a VS1 or 2 as it was all I had.
#5 - There recently have been Type-R markers and parts put up for sale (Member's BST). Would using that nice valve be advantageous over the stock valve? Or is there another 'must have' valve for Spyders? I am not neccesarily looking for low pressure. The gun will be regulated using an AA Vigilante (I have springs to make it LP or HP) and I will be using a loop of stainless steel hose after the bottomline ASA. This marker will have to run well on CO2. http://www.truepaintball.com/images/...e-assembly.jpg
#6 - I need a safety for the Bob Long frame. Can I purchase this somewhere, or can a standard Spyder safety be made to work?