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Old 02-18-2011, 02:13 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Denver

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Originally Posted by idkfa View Post
#1 - People have gotten their fingers pinched by the bolt when they cock the marker (on the field, if the bolt does not re-cock fully) and it slips on them. I really like the JAM bolt, so I would like to convert it to top cocking. Is there any way to mill a slot in the top of the body and use a longer hammer pin so it extends out the top of the body? Maybe even make it be able to slide out so you can remove the bolt?
That's definitely doable..they also make/made JAMs for Imagine-style half-rear cocking, and full rear cocking guns, you might want to try one of those before you cut any metal. Also, you could just halfback it, Imagines are pretty easy to do that.

Originally Posted by idkfa View Post
#2 - I don't like the cotter pin setup it currently has to remove the lower internals. Can a Cocker bolt pin work or be made to work? I am thinking that you might be able to open up both the hole in the body and the groove in the rear cap and use a spring loaded bolt pin.
There are aftermarket pins that work like that available, without having to cut a larger hole. If you do, it make bork the velocity adjuster. They may even have something at your local hardware store that will work.

Originally Posted by idkfa View Post
#3 - Trigger work. Is there any way to make the trigger a bit lighter/snappier? Or is this just playing around with trigger springs and stops?
Springs and stops is probably easiest. You could always try an eframe, they are relatively cheap. Eventually your trigger has to overcome the friction between the sear and the hammer, so it's going to be a little heavy by design. You could rig up a pneu system ala pneumag as well, if you want to get fancy...but then you need an LPR, more hoses, etc.

Originally Posted by idkfa View Post
#4 - With regards to the front block and 'volumizer', is there any benefit to using a larger chamber? The one it has was taken from a VS1 or 2 as it was all I had.
Not really any advantage if you're regulating; on raw CO2 the older Spyders were dumping right from tank into the valve so it gave you some expansion space to avoid accidental liquid dump into the valve. On HPA or well regulated CO2 it's pretty pointless.

Originally Posted by idkfa View Post
#5 - There recently have been Type-R markers and parts put up for sale (Member's BST). Would using that nice valve be advantageous over the stock valve? Or is there another 'must have' valve for Spyders? I am not neccesarily looking for low pressure. The gun will be regulated using an AA Vigilante (I have springs to make it LP or HP) and I will be using a loop of stainless steel hose after the bottomline ASA. This marker will have to run well on CO2.
If you're running CO2, I would not bother trying to go LP. There are a lot of things that need to be tweaked to make LP really work well, and in my experience it's not worth the hassle. There are a ton of aftermarket valves available, my preferred was the Madmans because they were about $3 on ebay for a while.

Originally Posted by idkfa View Post
#6 - I need a safety for the Bob Long frame. Can I purchase this somewhere, or can a standard Spyder safety be made to work?

Not sure on this one.
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