Short, I would suggest that you be very precise and use a lathe to make sure it is filed at the right angle because if you get it crooked it won't seal properly and you'll have a leaky valve. Then sand with steel wool to get it smooth. After that you should be set.
The main problem modern power tubes have is this quest for efficientcy. In an attempt to tweek the most shots out of you 12gm the ports have gotten smaller to the point that it is near impossible to actually tune your powertube for you gun. Nowadays everyone is tuning their gun to their powertubes which is usually a #4. Back in the day no one cared about efficantcy because the quest was for a quick change option or constant air. It all happened so fast that when it did fire power was all that mattered.
If this were a Stallone movie I would equate CCI to winning the franchise wars leaving us with little choice but to use their PT or scourer the Internet for an old school option. Although we Stock Class players tend to make tuning sound like rocket science, it's not.
My Redux success comes from its drive train of old school parts. Like I have been saying for years go heavy on the bolt and hammer, fluted is ok because it is usually made from hardened steel and is already heavy. I am sure someone will chime in claiming the opposite but in all honesty they don't have their 47