This is one of the latest offerings from our very own Dukie, see this thread for details: DSP Air in Grip Frames - MOD approved
The grip frame feels amazing. Period. it honestly fits my hand better than every frame I have ever used. Which is a lot of frames...CIP boxgun, Loo Duck, Carter Duck (both CNC and current style frames), redux, phantom M16 and .45, CCM Phantom 86* frames, Avratech R7 frame.
Dukie's frame makes me wish my boxgun and duck frames were this comfortable, damn you dukie my pistols are jealous lol
The frame also points VERY naturally, although this of course varies from person to person. I love the use of the bucket changer as the backstrap of the frame, the curvature of the bucket changer is awesome. I am using my frame with hogue palmswells and pearce wraparounds, I had to cut a little bit of the pearce grip out in order to prevent the grip panels from "grabbing" the bucket changer too tightly.
Onto the trigger...
What I like about the trigger:
-Material, it is made out of stainless steel, big plus on this one. The frame will wear out before the trigger wears lol.
-I think the trigger looks awesome, looks and feels like a 1911!
What I don't like about the trigger:
-I'd like the sear tripper to be at a shallower angle, like on older carter and CIP triggers, dukie did post a video about how to alter the geometry to suit the user, so it's not really an issue.
-the trigger needs to be wider, like 1/4". Looking at the trigger, it is about 1/8", and the frame walls on both sides next to the trigger are also about 1/8". Some of that wall is needed for the setscrew that holds the trigger in place.
-I know the purpose of the narrow trigger width was to allow for the use of trigger shoes, but I think a good trigger should "speak for itself", aka a good trigger won't need a shoe. Besides, using a trigger shoe on a frame this good looking takes away from the overall look IMO.
-Also if you were to use a trigger shoe, it probably has to be one with a low overall height, as a tall trigger shoe will get in the way of pulling the trigger back all the way. There is a little room to move the trigger shoe up farther on the trigger.
-initially I did not like that the trigger pull was so short, it was designed just enough to trip the sear of the hammer. I removed the trigger stop pin, and the pull length is to my liking now.
-My trigger need polishing, I don't mind a little bit of side to side slop in my triggers, but it feels a tiny bit "gritty" when I pull. It's not bad but I think a nice polishing would make the pull smoother.
I understand the trigger had to be designed the way it was (aka without "edges" on the top sides of the trigger) due to the frame having an integrated rail. With Carter, CIP and redux frames, a rail sandwiches the trigger between the rail and the frame itself. When tuned correctly, this results in a buttery trigger pull.
Here's an RTR trigger which illustrates the "edges" that are on the trigger. I'll have to take better and more detailed pictures sometime in the future. Due to the nature of the DSP frame, I don't think edges could be incorporated into the trigger's shape.
Please keep in mind that these are my opinions, does anyone else similar thoughts? Or am I just crazy?
Thank you dukie, you did a great job on the frames, and I hope my feedback may be useful for the next run!