To start, thanks for all the positive points!
I originally had the trigger layed out a top plate for retention but decided to go the route of a guide pin instead. I even had a spot in the frame over top of the spring to do it. Then I messed around with the idea of a trigger like the RTR shown. At least I think thats what that is. Whoevers that is I like the stops integrated into the trigger. Nice idea. Then I went on a tangent lol.
I was trying to keep it simple overall and still achieve a sliding trigger with 1 part, that I could modify at need. The triggers are the cheapest part to reproduce in the frame, if things need to change its easy to do! The stupid pins cost me more to make lol.
One thing I did build into the trigger is space underneath. You can add brass shims under the two sliding surfaces of the trigger to smooth out the pull...... all 1/16" of it. Polish those faces (more than they are) and make an "L" shaped piece of .005" shim. drop it under the trigger before install and diddle with it until you are happy. short leg up and to the front for the front. short leg up and behind at the back. If you want to spend the time at it, it makes an unbelieveable trigger when you are done.
It wasn't a big worry in my mind since it was an extremely short pull the way I set it up. Everyones different though! its still easy to diddle around with to suit the end user though.
I designed it for a CCI shoe. I can add some depth to the trigger next time around to allow for those that like ( or need) a longer pull.
I'm not going wider, that would screw up the whole works lol. Personal preference and limitions of the tooling/pretty junk on the outside.