Hey guys, here is my review of the new Tippmann Crossover. I will try to keep this fairly informal, mostly just an overview of the features of the marker, LOTSO pictures and a few videos.
To start off:
Packaging is fairly "Tippmann". Very plain with not much frill, no hard packaging, just a cardboard box with some folds inside to store the extras.
CON: Marker already has some box rash on the side from just sitting on the cardboard.
The things that are included in the package are all expected. You will receive:
- 1 Tippmann Crossover Marker
- 1 Tippmann A-5/X-7 threaded barrel
- a Tippmann Barrel sock
- a Fairly nice soft squeegie (not the rubber washer on a cord anymore)
- All the Allen wrenches you need to completely disassemble the Crossover
- Some spare grease
extra O-ring... I haven't found what it is for yet...
- and a DE-Volumizer (More on this later) De-Volumizer:
The picture pretty much says it all, but they state this is for "Lower velocity settings". I am unsure how low they are talking about as we were able to chronograph this marker down to 236fps with an old brass barrel. This spacer is quite large, around an inch thick that will drop right in to the volume chamber of the drive-train.
I have not tried to put this in as I will never be using it. If it is requested enough I could do a video showing what it may chronograph at with the spacer in place. Drive-Train:
I did not dig into this too deep as I didn't have the time nor the tools to take it apart. It is SLATHERED in "Certified Tippmann Grease". I assume this is the same white lithium grease used in the cyclones.
It is very similar to the Phenom but obviously has the regulator removed from the back of the flex-valve and attached to the bottom of the grip frame. The added volume chamber is interesting and I would like to see what pressure this runs at. I do not have the ability to test that at the moment.
One thing that is interesting is that they've added a couple pods of efficiency to the crossover from the Phenom. This can be seen on Youtube thanks to HustlePaintball.com. HustlePaintball.com Tests the Efficiency of the Tippmann Crossover Paintball Marker - YouTube Electronics:
This is probably the hardest section for me to review because I really only shoot automags...
Anyway, the eye system works well and are easily reachable when you remove the eye cover. HOWEVER, you will need to remove the grip frame to get the eyes out of the body.
SORRY EVERYBODY... they stuck their rubber detent in this thing. On both sides. The do seem to work well as always, but it would be nice to see a nice rebuildable ball detent. But there is something to say for sticking with what you know.
Now the left side of the grip frame houses only the battery. Where the right side should not need to be accessed unless you need to reset your tourney lock. The tourney lock is a small dip-switch with only on or off.
Buyer be warned, they have covered it from the factory with a little plastic that has been glued over the switch! A little annoying if your not ready for it.
The LED's on the rear of the grip frame and the single button are a bit confusing at first. They have some nice features:
The Top LED indicates eye condition (Ball in breach or not)
The middle LED indicates Firing mode (More on colors later)
The bottom LED indicates Battery condition (Green = new, Yellow = good, Red= replace)
The Eyes can be turned off only one way, a single click on the rear button. To turn them back on you can either click the rear button again, or you can turn the selector switch from Auto to Manual and back again.
The programming is a bit wonkey. It took approximately 1 beer to properly change modes. (5-min for you under-agers
To change modes:
Hold the button on the rear of the grip for ~4 seconds
. All the LED's will blink orange 4 times indicating you are in programming mode. (You must have your tourney lock off to enter this mode)
You have 2 choices in programming mode: Green and Yellow.
Green is for your firing mode, Yellow is for Advanced Programming. You will select between the two by pulling the trigger.
These LED's are VERY VERY hard to differentiate. You can tell a difference after you have switched two or three times. Sub-modes are now indicated by the bottom LED.
To select a mode, hold the trigger for ~2 seconds
. The middle LED will flash 4 times to indicate you have entered that mode.
Green: Firing mode, you will cycle through each mode again by pulling the trigger
and again you will select the mode you want by holding the trigger for ~2 seconds NOW!
Be fast, to save this setting, you need to hold the trigger and the rear button
until the LED's flash four times. This will kick you out of programming settings and save your new setting. Firing Modes:
All of these are set to 15 BPS with the exception of PSP mode.
RED LED: 3-shot burst (first three trigger pulls are semi-auto)
GREEN LED: NXL Full-Auto (FACTORY DEFAULT - first three pulls are semi-auto)
BLUE LED: Auto Response
YELLOW LED: Semi-automatic
ORANGE LED: PSP/CFOA (12.5 BPS)
PURPLE LED: Millenium ADVANCED Programming:
RED LED: Dwell
This is selected by a ~2 second trigger pull and you will then pull the number of times until your desired setting is reached. (Chart available in the manual). Factory setting is at 5.0 ms.
GREEN LED: Debounce
There are 3 settings, Low, Medium, and High. BUYER BEWARE
on ALL THREE SETTINGS this thing took off uncontrollably in PSP mode. We could not stop it. We ran out of paint to take a proper video of this, but we will document it later.
BLUE LED: Rate of Fire (ROF)
Again, this is a pull and count type of programming. Chart is in the manual. This is programmable from 2 bps - 15 bps.
REMEMBER! With all of these, you need to SAVE the setting by holding the trigger and the selector button simultaneously until the LED's flash 4 times. OTHER FEATURES:
The trigger is not user-friendly at all. It has quite a bit of side-side play and is very stiff. It is also very bouncy as previously mentioned.
The Feedneck however is a nice touch. When we locked the Empire Prophecy in place, there was no concern at all. It has a rubberized texture both inside and out as well as a lever lock and thumb adjuster knob for tightening. It is a very nice feedneck (Thank you Tippmann)
The barrel is fairly typically Tippmann. It is very rough inside and seems like an afterthought more than a feature. I think they realize that it is meant to be replaced. I have included a picture below of the barrel, but it is tough to see just how rough it is inside.
Size-wise, this marker ranks right in there. Ill include a couple pictures for you to make your own observations. With these, we just tried to line up the triggers (Notice how far ahead the feedneck is on the Crossover), this has a very long drive-train.
Now on to the good part! Shooting videos!
Image to show the wind on this particular day (Approx: 5mph gusts).
On the Virtue clock, we ripped a stream on PSP to see the consistency of the reg. (NOT GOOD). This reg is all over the place. Even firing slow as you will see later, it is +-13fps. The does have a lot of paintball marker kick as well. I think I may be able to fix some of this with some adjusting, but it will take some time.
Somewhat tough to see, but the clock shows an average of 275fps, +-13fps, and a bps of 12.5.
Here is the Accuracy on a cardboard box at ~75 feet with the stock barrel. This box is approximately the size of a human torso and ~80% of the balls hit the target. Not bad for the condition of the stock barrel. I count 16 hits on the box out of the 20 we shot. One video is with the stock barrel, the other with an old brass barrel I have in A-5 threads, accuracy was about dead even. 75ft accuracy
75ft accuracy 2
Slow shooting chronograph readings: Mechanical Mode: Semi-Auto E-mode
If you have any questions/suggestions/comments/concerns, let me know I will do my best to answer or solve them for you. Just post here or PM if you want a bit more of my attention. Hope you enjoyed it, sorry, I tried to do well as this was my first review.