Originally Posted by Spider!
First, did you give it oil when you had it apart? Four drops in the ASA is a fair start, or two or three in the banjo bolt port.
Old urethane o-rings can get hard instead of mushy, making them bind up instead of leak, so if any of them looked dark or hard, you might just as well rebuild it.
Also, take the valve out and make sure the bolt (without the spring) drops though the body washer without a problem. While my RT was pretty clean, the body washer had a few years of corrosion/paint reside on it that sanded off relatively easily. Still, it needed to be sanded off.
If you haven't checked, the bolt spring should be at least 1/8" longer than the end of the bolt. 3/16" - 14" over is a fresh spring. Flush with the tip is getting into problems.
Spider! Thanks for the walkthrough. I did give it some oil in the banjo bolt, mostly as it had been very slowly leaking from the banjo and i figured some oil might help it stop (which it did). As I just posted, I ordered a rebuild kit from AGD this morning. I only live about 15 minutes from their address in Cary, IL so hopefully I should have it pretty quickly. I wish I could have just taken the gun into them, but I emailed Roman and he said they don't take walk-ins
Also in my previous post I did notice a lot of the orings to be discolored brown, and the on/off orings caused significant binding on the on/off pin (which doesn't look modified or ground down at all, but I don't have a set of calipers to accurately measure it). So again, hopefully the rebuild should fix that. I'm assuming the on/off pin should float pretty freely in the valve?
I will check the body washer clearance tonight, thanks.
The bolt spring, while I haven't measured it exactly, I think is fine. It sticks about 1 coil off of the top of the bolt while sitting on the table. I'd say it's at least 1/4", possibly more.