Far from an expert, but Centerflag had a few revisions making it a bit more difficult. I *believe* there were 13bps and 20bps boards. 13 had more shot variations, 20 had great "tweaking" options ala dwell, etc. 20 I *think* only had semi to comply with tournament regulations, but had greater/multiple dwell settings (ie. dwell to solenoid, dwell of charge, etc.) to better tune it to the Automag on/off. Most of my experience with them is with 'mags so keep that in mind.
Automag version: WARPIG - World And Regional Paintball Information Guide
Autococker version: Centerflag Uprising Frame (sold) Photo Gallery by Kenneth MacDowell at pbase.com Uprising Electronic frame by Centerflag photo - Kenneth MacDowell photos at pbase.com Critical Spyder Trigger---For Centerflag Frames
Spyder version: Otter Customs Paintball - Centerflag Hyperframe Review
(I do wonder if this is a pic he took himself--it looks like the Automag one to me). Spyder w / Centerflag Framework | Latest Name Brand Electronics Online E frames ready to ship and front blocks
If you take off the side panel with the display, it would help narrow it down. I'm pretty sure the Spyder
one "pushes" forward as does the Autococker
one while the Automag
one "pushes" backwards.
I bought my last one with a wonky trigger for $30. However, I've seen pristine Boo-Ya's go for >$200. So, my guess is somewhere in between there.
What's the distance between the frame holes?