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Old 02-09-2007, 08:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
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More questions from the newly converted:

1) Just nearly had a heart attack when disassembling my baby for her semi-weekly oiling and tinkering. When sliding out the valve assembly out the back, the on/off bottom sprung out and proceeded to bounce off the desk into a heating duct. An hour of dirty fishing with my hands thankfully yielded it up.

Now, I've always had a bit of trouble getting it to stay put when sliding the valve back into the body. It hasn't impacted performance as far as I can tell -- but is it supposed to come out that easy? Both the o-ring sets are where they need to be. I have an aftermarket classic valve which may be the problem.

2) Classic body, aftermarket classic valve. My short-stroking misadventures are well-documented in this forum. Should I get a Y-Grip?
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Old 02-09-2007, 11:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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1) aftermarket may be an issue, but the top and bottom teflon o-rings are supposed to hold snuggly enough that nothing should move around. Try replacing the teflon o-rings before replacing the on/off as it could just be that they're old and a little stretched.

2: Practice Also make sure that your trigger rod is adjusted appropriately, for some reason on my MicroMag, the locktite occasionaly breaks loose (once a year) and that causes me to shortstroke. When gassed up, the trigger rod should be ~1/16" from the back of the trigger (when all the way forward)(use a 1/16 allen to check spacing).
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Old 02-10-2007, 02:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yeah, the short-stroking bit was due to the fact that the rod touches the trigger when she's gassed up. Though I can't cycle it with the safety rod pushed in anymore.
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Old 02-10-2007, 02:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The flying on/off is due to the fact that the valve will sometimes hold air and when you remove it this will launch the on/off into orbit. I have had this happen once and since then make sure all the air is bled out and hold something over the on/off just in case.
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Old 02-10-2007, 02:24 PM   #5 (permalink)
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What's the valve? Hurricane?

To the best of my knowledge only the back half of the valves were produced by aftermarket companies. So it should have no effect on how the on/off fits into the valve. Or do you mean the on/off is aftermarket?

Regardless if it shoots fine I wouldn't worry about it, but you probibly are close to needing new o-rings in the on/off.

-MR
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Old 02-11-2007, 01:54 AM   #6 (permalink)
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When removing the Valve hold the trigger down, that should degas the valve. The sear rod should be 2" long, slightly shorter is fine. I think the actual measurment is 1.95 or something similar.

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Old 02-13-2007, 11:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The Y-Grip is purely your preference. I love the way they look, but cannot stand the way they feel!

If you dislike having your On/Off splitting into a few different directions when you take it apart, track down an RT Pro On/Off, many of the guys who use the ULT On/Off will disgard the RT Pro On/Off - so you should be able to get one cheap

I have an RT on/off in my Classic Valve, it works just fine and supposedly reduces the trigger pull weight too...
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Old 02-14-2007, 10:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Also, be sure to pull the trigger when taking out the valve.

Watching the Mag video should answer all the questions you have for the rest of your life.
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Old 02-16-2007, 08:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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What's the valve? Hurricane?
ANS Reactor II. Yeah, yeah, I know.
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Old 02-17-2007, 02:22 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Well, just be a little extra nicer to it....
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