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| Rabid Otter Paintballer! Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Maine. | Two Random Q's about Emag Valves and Batterys.
Title pretty much says it, so I'll just get to my questions. 1.) Emag Valve: Does any valve work in a emag so long as it has a emag on off assembly? Or is it the on off pin? 2.) Can someone explain to me the difference in new batteries on the market, whats the current most popular or recommended, and how you install them? Also chargers, would I need to switch from the stock AGD Charger thats with the emag I just bought? Basically I have a emag coming that needs a battery and a valve, and I'm not up to date on emag technology. Heck, this will be my first. Thanks! Last edited by Otter; 05-14-2010 at 09:23 AM. |
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| MCB Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Sanford, FL |
All valves except Classic and Classic RT valves will work on an E-Mag. You will need an E-Mag on/off assembly, which is basically an RT on/off with a 0.712 length pin and a quad o-ring (black grooved one) instead of the white o-ring at the end (the smaller one, on the end that goes in first). As far as I know for batteries, you only have the choice of the original battery straight from AGD or Tunaman if they still have it (600 mAh), or KC's battery pack (1000 mAh). They are both NiMH packs and can be charged with the stock charger. I have heard of people building their own Li-Ion packs, but those would need to be charged with Li-Ion specific chargers. You can generally also find used packs that are still good. Welcome to E-Mag ownership, they are a hoot! EDIT: I have both the 600 mAh pack that I got used, and a new 1000 mAh pack from KC. They both hold a charge real good, and have never ran out of juice during a full day without recharging. Supposedly you can get 20,000 shots off a fully charged 600 mAh. Even when running my Warp and hopper off the E-Mag battery, I have never ran out.
__________________ My feedback: http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/f...-feedback.html Last edited by Doubledutch; 05-14-2010 at 12:36 PM. |
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| Rabid Otter Paintballer! Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Maine. |
K, kool. Thank you for the info! Good to know, especially on the Li-Ion batteries. And I have to get the emag first before I can say I'm a owner! ![]() And I have one more question. Whats the difference between a RetroValve, and a RT Pro Valve? Thanks in advance. Last edited by Otter; 05-18-2010 at 08:45 AM. |
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| MCB Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Sanford, FL |
No prob. Functionally, all RT Valves other than the Classic are the same. The only difference is material, which affects weight. Someone that is better at memorizing things could tell you which ones are all steel, half steel and half aluminum, and all aluminum. The X-Valve is all aluminum. One small exception is ReTro valves. Mine has a step in the on/off hole, which prevents the use of an ULT (Ultra Light Trigger) kit. When putting an RT on/off in one of those, you would use one less o-ring, you basically would not have an o-ring around the quad o-ring described above, as that is where the extra metal step would be. I don't know if all ReTro Valves are like that or just the earlier ones.
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