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Old 06-21-2010, 02:04 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I have been wanting to try this on my polished clasic mag and after seeing how amazing yours looks I will have to give It a go. I was worried how it would work on the round surface. I am doing engine turning in the interior of my 65 Nova but it is a flat surface
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Old 06-21-2010, 09:52 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I have been wanting to try this on my polished clasic mag and after seeing how amazing yours looks I will have to give It a go. I was worried how it would work on the round surface. I am doing engine turning in the interior of my 65 Nova but it is a flat surface
There are some other threads on AO with some more details, but you may not need the tooling details. The wood fixture works pretty well, accurate enough to keep things straight in one direction and enough friction to hold a vertical load steady. It's easy to rearrange too. By changing the end pieces off the sprocket you can do blind cylinders (mag valves) and flat pieces.

I love stainless, but I had to try this heat sink design on CO2.
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Old 06-21-2010, 12:24 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Beautiful idea. Have you considered adding horizontal groove to increase surface area even more?
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Old 06-21-2010, 12:49 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Beautiful idea. Have you considered adding horizontal groove to increase surface area even more?
Yeah, but 1) I don't have a mill, 2) I will have to break out my heat transfer book to see what the minimum practical size the fins should be, and 3) I would like to keep it "skin friendly", just in case.

I'm pretty sure that the size of these fins will give me full credit for the surface area at least. If you use up more of the z-pin hole and keep the grooves tighter, you can fit more fins on there as it is.

I originally wanted to get it cut as a worm gear, just because it would serve the experiment and look interesting at the same time. I cut the fins with shoulders as a compromise.
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Old 06-21-2010, 01:17 PM   #15 (permalink)
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How are you on material for strength? Basically what's the minimum thickness that you have maintained so as not to prevent the thing from grenading if you get a pressure spike from warm CO2.

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Old 06-21-2010, 02:03 PM   #16 (permalink)
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How are you on material for strength? Basically what's the minimum thickness that you have maintained so as not to prevent the thing from grenading if you get a pressure spike from warm CO2.

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Exactly. I measured the wall thickness at the front of the reg (the pressured area) at 0.341. I took a full 0.125 off, so it's 0.216, which is thicker than many ASA's I found. I won't be using this on HPA though.

***

The rings will stay together. A failure would have to occur in the first groove near the valve, but half of it has a vent hole in it (with a good vent path). The reg seat would have to fail along with the reg piston relief. To get really good pressure, the back bottle burst disk would have to hold, along with the macro line and the reg piston o-ring. This is something that I did strictly for CO2.
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Old 06-22-2010, 01:41 AM   #17 (permalink)
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That's a really clever idea... I guess I'm so used to thinking of fins as something for cooling, that it wouldn't have dawned on me that heat transfer works both ways (duh). Of course, I don't use CO2 anymore anyway (on my mags at least), but still, cool idea. It even looks pretty sweet.
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