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Old 03-10-2008, 10:26 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Ethanator, I probably posted a picture here some time back but here it is again just for you.

Instead of the 90 I found a Race Ecocker frame and modified that. No, not electro. It's mechanical and I just used the frame and trigger. Had to cut away some of the metal up top to form a slot for the sear rod and drilled a recess in the back of the trigger for it to seat into.

The sharp eyes will note that it's also internal airline. But this example constitute's prior art before SP announced their patent....

clicky to make biggy

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Old 03-17-2008, 12:31 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Ooooh, Your Mag turned out pretty nice (just needs a bigger frame compared to the body )

I'm a lousy tech when it comes to Mags (In fact, I will be buying my first mag soon!).

If I want to rip my Mag really fast, don't I need an intelliframe or Y-grip? or can I take any Frame with blade trigger and it would work the same way?

Thank you!
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Old 03-17-2008, 10:01 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Well the Intelliframe and Ygrips are just variations in mechanical trigger frames. If you want higher bps rates I'd say that the frame isn't really a big issue other than perhaps it holds your hand in a better position. However what is IN the frames or the valve type can help a lot.

From what I've read in order of fire rates from lowest to highest for 'Mags it's....
  1. Classic valve and regular trigger in any frame. Basic finger speed pretty much sets the rate.
  2. RT valve. When set just right and run from high pressure you can get an almost machinegun like response from this valve style. But in this case it's the valve and not the frame.
  3. Pneu-Mag. An air piston drives the sear release and the trigger only pushes against a light return spring and an air valve similar to an autococker 3way.
  4. E-Mag. Electrical controlled so now it's all about the board and ramping and all that "good" stuff is possible.

And of course the price follows the faciness.
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