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Old 08-10-2010, 12:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Full breakdown and maintenance of RT classic

Hi guys,

I purchased my first Automag RT classic with a Level 10 bolt from a guy on these forums last year and played with it all winter without knowing a thing about Automags. I probably beat it up pretty good and never cleaned it once, just oiled it up every time I played and it shot really well.

Now I would like to break this thing down and do a full cleaning/maintenance before I start playing again this coming fall, both to make sure its nice and clean as well as to just learn about the gun.

Thing is I have NO IDEA how to even begin taking my mag apart. Looking around at various sources, like the RT manual, the Level 10 tuning guide, etc. is all well and good but what I need is something of a step-by-step guide in where to start, what to look for, maybe even a schematic or diagram of the important parts of the gun that need to be cleaned and maintained every once and awhile.

If anybody could point me in the right direction to some kind of guide for doing this I would greatly appreciate it!

Just as a note, the mag doesn't really have any problems right now. (But it probably will if I mess it up taking it apart, lol).
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Old 08-10-2010, 03:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The whole marker is held together by 2 screws. There's nothing really hard about tearing it part.

You'll see a screw inside the trigger guard area and a big flat one in the back which is called your field strip screw. Pull them both and the marker will falls apart. Really all you need to do is removed the valve (unscrew the field strip) and dunk the rest of the marker in some hot water. Let it sit for a bit and swash it around a little. Pull it out, let it air dry and your done cleaning it. The valve itself....If it's not leaking, no need to mess with it. If you head over to youtube. You'll find a 9 part vid with Tom Kaye on how to tear it down and inspect everything.
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Old 08-10-2010, 04:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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airgundesigns.com click on tech area and download manules
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Old 08-10-2010, 04:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Note:

If you have a classic RT: Be VERY CAREFUL with the back screw. That's a banjo bolt, and I've had problems with the o-rings on it in the past.

Other than that, Ando's pretty much on it.
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Old 08-10-2010, 05:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vf-xx View Post
Note:

If you have a classic RT: Be VERY CAREFUL with the back screw. That's a banjo bolt, and I've had problems with the o-rings on it in the past.

Other than that, Ando's pretty much on it.
I've read some RTs are more prone to that than others as a result of their fit or finish. Is there any truth to that?
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Old 08-10-2010, 07:14 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spider! View Post
I've read some RTs are more prone to that than others as a result of their fit or finish. Is there any truth to that?
Hard to say for sure. I've owned 2. My first ate o-rings like they were going out of style.

Last one I had I had zero problems on it. I couldn't say if I just handled the new one better or if it was a fit and finish issue.

edit for OP:

When you start backing off the banjo bolt, make sure you keep pressure on the back of the valve. Once you've gotten the Banjo Bolt loose you want to keep pressure of the tip of it as you unscrew it and remove it from the body. This should help you preserve your o-rings.
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Old 08-11-2010, 04:50 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Lots of good tips here, thanks guys.

About the valve and the Level 10 bolt as well, I kind of want to take it all apart just to have a look inside. I just want to be able to fix this stuff if it ever breaks.

I watched some of the Tom Kaye videos on Youtube but I'm not sure if the 68 classic he is working on in that video has the same parts as my RT.

Anything I should know about before I go messing around with the valve itself, or would it just be better to leave it alone?

Would have just ripped that banjo bolt out and probably would have torn the o-rings to pieces, thanks for the heads up vf-xx.
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Old 08-11-2010, 09:19 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lain View Post
Lots of good tips here, thanks guys.

About the valve and the Level 10 bolt as well, I kind of want to take it all apart just to have a look inside. I just want to be able to fix this stuff if it ever breaks.

I watched some of the Tom Kaye videos on Youtube but I'm not sure if the 68 classic he is working on in that video has the same parts as my RT.

Anything I should know about before I go messing around with the valve itself, or would it just be better to leave it alone?

Would have just ripped that banjo bolt out and probably would have torn the o-rings to pieces, thanks for the heads up vf-xx.
You're welcome.

Eh, if the valve works just fine. I'd say leave well enough alone. Tuning the LX takes time and air.

That said, the engineer in me requires I disassemble things too, soooo..... It's up to you. Just make sure that you remember the order and orientation of everything you remove. And also remember that Mags like oil. So feel free to lube your o-rings as you rebuild. Just make sure you dryfire with your barrell removed when you're done to work it all through the system.
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Old 08-11-2010, 10:20 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lain View Post
I watched some of the Tom Kaye videos on Youtube but I'm not sure if the 68 classic he is working on in that video has the same parts as my RT.
It's the same general rules and overall parts. The main difference is in the regulator pin and its seals. The RT reg "pin" has 3 o-rings instead of the one seat. Use the x-valve exploded diagram from the airgundesignsusadotcom tech section. If you can, get used to everything else first, especially the level 10 bolt, before you open up the reg. Nothing pops out and it isn't too delicate, it just looks complicated and you don't want to scratch it up.
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Old 08-15-2010, 12:57 AM   #10 (permalink)
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If you want to KNOW your RT and be able to figure out what's wrong with it, it really helps and also it's just satisfying knowing HOW it works. What is in that valve? Fortunately, someone made an animation that you can stare at all you want until you GET IT. Try focusing on one small area at a time, starting from the air input and ending with the bolt, following the path of the air.

http://www.zdspb.com/media/tech/anim...emag2_6fps.gif
ignore the "E-mag" thing, the valve is the same as a Classic RT valve.
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