I can't get at my air chamber! - Page 2

Azzy · 03-21-2007, 07:16 PM

I had an old old valve, and it unscrewed fine. Was an AIR valve.

Railgun · 03-22-2007, 01:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steven_Spinosa

I suppose I could be messy and stupid here, but on a welded one, I could always remove the power tube tip, spacer, and O-ring. Now that I can sorta see the back wall of the air chamber, I could use a syringe (turkey baster?) full of pre-mixed JB weld and slather it on the walls of the air chamber, rotating the whole time. This would eventually narrow the space, but then I could always goof and fill the inlet by mistake.

A smart guy would stick a well waxed and tapered plastic plug down the gas passage hole so any epoxy would not flow down that way.

Also if you're just trying to fill in the volume there's no need to use glue. A plastic block that just sits in there would do the same job and be far more easily removable later on. Just don't listen to the rattles when you shake it or make it so there's some sort of light spring to hold it in place over to one side or something like that.

But won't the regulator on the rear still regulate the CO2 from the 12gm down to the normal pressure? Or will the fact that the later regs were not CO2 friendly ensure that the full pressure zooms on through? Or can you just remove the regulator valve pin from the rear and replace the piston to seal it and get full pressure through to the front?

aqua_scummm · 03-22-2007, 04:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Railgun

A smart guy would stick a well waxed and tapered plastic plug down the gas passage hole so any epoxy would not flow down that way.

Also if you're just trying to fill in the volume there's no need to use glue. A plastic block that just sits in there would do the same job and be far more easily removable later on. Just don't listen to the rattles when you shake it or make it so there's some sort of light spring to hold it in place over to one side or something like that.

But won't the regulator on the rear still regulate the CO2 from the 12gm down to the normal pressure? Or will the fact that the later regs were not CO2 friendly ensure that the full pressure zooms on through? Or can you just remove the regulator valve pin from the rear and replace the piston to seal it and get full pressure through to the front?

I *think* removing the pin and reg seat would be enough

Railgun · 03-22-2007, 01:00 PM

The reg seat is also the seal between the inner reg passage and the outer high pressure passage. But then again since it won't be regulated then that would be the way to go. In fact screwing in the adjuster all the way to reduce volume would help with the packing of the volume at the back end.

DarkStar · 03-22-2007, 09:08 PM

Maybe I'm missing something. Why do you want to gut the regulator? You'll have no way to regulate velocity.

-MR

Surestick · 03-22-2007, 09:21 PM

You could regulate velocity by adjusting the size of the dump chamber.
It would leave you at the mercy of the elements though.

Surestick · 03-22-2007, 09:27 PM

My first though was plastic airsoft pellets but those would move around & probably end up blocking the power-tube or get shot out depending on size.

Shane-O · 03-22-2007, 10:04 PM

Open it up and find some large Black o-rings that will fit snuggly inside and stack them until the power tube holds them in place. Viola'! air chamber reduction. I think I read about Ion owners doing that............

Shane-O

Steven_Spinosa · 03-23-2007, 04:25 AM

Toss several 3/8" ball bearings and some screen door material capping the top and bottom. Significant volume reduction.

aqua_scummm · 03-23-2007, 06:20 AM

Reasons to gut regulator: expirament with other regulators, but not overly regulating your air to the point where there's less than 150psi or so between pressures.

Use a regulator with a built in gauge

Run off 12grams more efficiently- once you get it to about 260ish for a normal temperature day, shouldn't be an issue chronoing

tinker

03-21-2007, 07:16 PM	#11 (permalink)
Azzy Mod-O-Rator Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Finleyville, PA	I had an old old valve, and it unscrewed fine. Was an AIR valve. __________________ Bryan "Azzy" Spiegel Riverside Renegade Paintball / C.C. S.V.S. Plankowner - LPPC#6 "It is my right to be uncommon—if I can. I seek opportunity—not security. I do not wish to be a kept citizen, humbled and dulled by having the state look after me. I want to take the calculated risk; to dream and to build, to fail and to succeed. I refuse to barter incentive for a dole. I prefer the challenges of life to the guaranteed existence; the thrill of fulfillment to the stale calm of utopia. I will not trade freedom for beneficence nor my dignity for a handout. I will never cower before any master nor bend to any threat. It is my heritage to stand erect, proud and unafraid; to think and act for myself, enjoy the benefit of my creations and to face the world boldly and say, “This I have done.” - Dean Alfange

03-22-2007, 01:00 PM	#14 (permalink)
Railgun Post Whore Join Date: Oct 2006	The reg seat is also the seal between the inner reg passage and the outer high pressure passage. But then again since it won't be regulated then that would be the way to go. In fact screwing in the adjuster all the way to reduce volume would help with the packing of the volume at the back end. __________________ Model airplanes are cool too!

03-22-2007, 09:21 PM	#16 (permalink)
Surestick Seasoned Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada	You could regulate velocity by adjusting the size of the dump chamber. It would leave you at the mercy of the elements though. __________________ Current markers: Automag powerfeed left. PGP w/some Palmer's love WDP Angel Speed 03 (bought for $100 & in need of some love (read: money I don't have) thrown it's way ) Sheridan Piranha LB PMI-III Spyder Victor-II "Now is no time to be making new enemies" - Voltaire (When asked on his deathbed by a priest to renounce the devil and turn to God.)

03-22-2007, 09:27 PM	#17 (permalink)
Surestick Seasoned Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada	My first though was plastic airsoft pellets but those would move around & probably end up blocking the power-tube or get shot out depending on size. __________________ Current markers: Automag powerfeed left. PGP w/some Palmer's love WDP Angel Speed 03 (bought for $100 & in need of some love (read: money I don't have) thrown it's way ) Sheridan Piranha LB PMI-III Spyder Victor-II "Now is no time to be making new enemies" - Voltaire (When asked on his deathbed by a priest to renounce the devil and turn to God.)

03-23-2007, 04:25 AM	#19 (permalink)
Steven_Spinosa MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Floriduh	Toss several 3/8" ball bearings and some screen door material capping the top and bottom. Significant volume reduction. __________________ Look at your PPS Typhoon. If it has "ARGUS" written on it's ram sleeve, I want it back. I was the first owner, and will start keeping $500 in my paypal account to dispense to you immediately. Chain armor made to order. http://www.StalwartArmor.com

03-23-2007, 06:20 AM	#20 (permalink)
aqua_scummm MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Los Angeles	Reasons to gut regulator: expirament with other regulators, but not overly regulating your air to the point where there's less than 150psi or so between pressures. Use a regulator with a built in gauge Run off 12grams more efficiently- once you get it to about 260ish for a normal temperature day, shouldn't be an issue chronoing tinker __________________ My choice is what I chose to do, and if I'm causin' no harm, it shouldn't bother you. Your choice is who you chose to be, and if you're causin' no harm, then you're alright with me.

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