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Old 03-21-2007, 07:16 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I had an old old valve, and it unscrewed fine. Was an AIR valve.
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Old 03-22-2007, 01:31 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I suppose I could be messy and stupid here, but on a welded one, I could always remove the power tube tip, spacer, and O-ring. Now that I can sorta see the back wall of the air chamber, I could use a syringe (turkey baster?) full of pre-mixed JB weld and slather it on the walls of the air chamber, rotating the whole time. This would eventually narrow the space, but then I could always goof and fill the inlet by mistake.
A smart guy would stick a well waxed and tapered plastic plug down the gas passage hole so any epoxy would not flow down that way.

Also if you're just trying to fill in the volume there's no need to use glue. A plastic block that just sits in there would do the same job and be far more easily removable later on. Just don't listen to the rattles when you shake it or make it so there's some sort of light spring to hold it in place over to one side or something like that.

But won't the regulator on the rear still regulate the CO2 from the 12gm down to the normal pressure? Or will the fact that the later regs were not CO2 friendly ensure that the full pressure zooms on through? Or can you just remove the regulator valve pin from the rear and replace the piston to seal it and get full pressure through to the front?
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Old 03-22-2007, 04:46 AM   #13 (permalink)
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A smart guy would stick a well waxed and tapered plastic plug down the gas passage hole so any epoxy would not flow down that way.

Also if you're just trying to fill in the volume there's no need to use glue. A plastic block that just sits in there would do the same job and be far more easily removable later on. Just don't listen to the rattles when you shake it or make it so there's some sort of light spring to hold it in place over to one side or something like that.

But won't the regulator on the rear still regulate the CO2 from the 12gm down to the normal pressure? Or will the fact that the later regs were not CO2 friendly ensure that the full pressure zooms on through? Or can you just remove the regulator valve pin from the rear and replace the piston to seal it and get full pressure through to the front?
I *think* removing the pin and reg seat would be enough
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Old 03-22-2007, 01:00 PM   #14 (permalink)
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The reg seat is also the seal between the inner reg passage and the outer high pressure passage. But then again since it won't be regulated then that would be the way to go. In fact screwing in the adjuster all the way to reduce volume would help with the packing of the volume at the back end.
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Old 03-22-2007, 09:08 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Maybe I'm missing something. Why do you want to gut the regulator? You'll have no way to regulate velocity.

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Old 03-22-2007, 09:21 PM   #16 (permalink)
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You could regulate velocity by adjusting the size of the dump chamber.
It would leave you at the mercy of the elements though.
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Old 03-22-2007, 09:27 PM   #17 (permalink)
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My first though was plastic airsoft pellets but those would move around & probably end up blocking the power-tube or get shot out depending on size.
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Old 03-22-2007, 10:04 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Open it up and find some large Black o-rings that will fit snuggly inside and stack them until the power tube holds them in place. Viola'! air chamber reduction. I think I read about Ion owners doing that............

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Old 03-23-2007, 04:25 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Toss several 3/8" ball bearings and some screen door material capping the top and bottom. Significant volume reduction.
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Old 03-23-2007, 06:20 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Reasons to gut regulator: expirament with other regulators, but not overly regulating your air to the point where there's less than 150psi or so between pressures.

Use a regulator with a built in gauge

Run off 12grams more efficiently- once you get it to about 260ish for a normal temperature day, shouldn't be an issue chronoing

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