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Old 03-21-2007, 04:15 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Reducing blowback? Field rental barrel removal?

I recently used my field rental 68automag for the first time. It has a standard right feed, foamieless bolt, and a problem. It chopped all the time. Now I haven't used a semi-auto for about 4 years before this (save for maybe, maybe, 120 shots dryfiring various markers), so I was a little rusty with the single trigger, yet I think I may have been outshooting my loader (gravity). The feedneck has a hole in it, I assume to prevent blowback issues, are there any other ways to reduce it? Can I go tippmann style and drill a couple holes in the body somewhere? Do I just need to shoot slower (I got REALLY lazy with the semi-auto ).

It's normally not a problem, but I can't remove this barrel without removing the front frame screw, and prefer pull-through squeegees. Do you know what part I should replace to make my barrel removable?

The paint had been sitting for awhile, in a mildly humid enviroment, so if anything, it should be less brittle
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Old 03-21-2007, 12:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Couple of things I could think of that would make the barrel not removable.
Make sure the front screw isn't too long and digging into the barrel.
Make sure the twist lock assembly is pushed all the way down into the rail.
Make sure the twist lock assembly isn't gummed up or anything. You should be able to push the rod down with your fingers.
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Old 03-21-2007, 08:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Check the twist lock grooves on barrel, make sure their isn't a lip or depression that the twist lock assembly might get caught on.

As for breaking paint, make sure you have a detent and make sure the detent is sticking out far enough to prevent double feeding/breakage.
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Old 03-21-2007, 09:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I used to have an old automag field rental. The reason the barrel won't twist out is the twist lock assembly is solid brass. The assembly doesn't depress allowing the barrel to be removed. They did this so people renting them wouldn't remove the barrel. You will need to replace it or you can file it down a little. At least that is how mine was.

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Old 03-22-2007, 01:27 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thelar View Post
I used to have an old automag field rental. The reason the barrel won't twist out is the twist lock assembly is solid brass. The assembly doesn't depress allowing the barrel to be removed. They did this so people renting them wouldn't remove the barrel. You will need to replace it or you can file it down a little. At least that is how mine was.

Larry
But then why can he take it out if the screw is loosened? Unless that solid tip was broken off.

I'm guessing the front screw is too long as well. Check the barrel at that spot to see if there's any bad markings. And if there is then file the screw down by a thread and try again. If it's extra long then it is pushing the barrel out of alignment and that may be causing part of the chopping trouble.

If the barrel lock was supposed to be fixed and it got broken off then look into fitting a new spring loaded one in. Or if you remove your trigger frame from the saddle rail and if you see a set screw in the locking pin's housing sticking down just ahead of the front frame screw then perhaps that set screw is too tight so the spring inside is coil binding and the pin in the body can't move down because of that.
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Old 03-22-2007, 03:40 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Railgun View Post
But then why can he take it out if the screw is loosened? Unless that solid tip was broken off.

I'm guessing the front screw is too long as well. Check the barrel at that spot to see if there's any bad markings. And if there is then file the screw down by a thread and try again. If it's extra long then it is pushing the barrel out of alignment and that may be causing part of the chopping trouble.

If the barrel lock was supposed to be fixed and it got broken off then look into fitting a new spring loaded one in. Or if you remove your trigger frame from the saddle rail and if you see a set screw in the locking pin's housing sticking down just ahead of the front frame screw then perhaps that set screw is too tight so the spring inside is coil binding and the pin in the body can't move down because of that.
The barrel lock is in the frame and the screw goes into the body, if you loosen the screw it lifts the barrel off the barrel lock, correct?
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Old 03-22-2007, 10:23 AM   #7 (permalink)
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If you want to reduce the blowback pick up one of the AGD longnose bolts. I think ASP has them on ebay but it'd be like $15.
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Old 03-27-2007, 12:32 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks to all the help. The barrel removal was the twist lock pin, it does not depress at all, so you must loosen the front frame screw quite a bit to get the piece able to drop low enough
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Old 03-27-2007, 09:07 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I've always wondered why AGD didn't put an o-ring on the bolt tip to reduce blowback.
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