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Old 12-19-2010, 01:06 AM   #11 (permalink)
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well, i don't know about other people, but when i set up my L10 in my classic or AIR valve, was about 7 or 8 years ago and i haven't touched it. the set up is not difficult. there are videos on youtube on the tuning. all you really need is some air, and patience. if anything, it will also help you deal with any problems that might occur. since you will be doing this yourself, it will help.

and in my opinion, the cost as well as the benefit of being able to achieve higher rates of fire is not necessary with the x-valve. what you're looking for is consistancy, not performance. you can use HPA on both, as well as co2 in the classic. maintenance is simple(though, no real experience with X-valves), and it is really no benefit for you needs. to anno the same colour as the rest of the gun? so? i like the separation of the stainless compared to rest of the gun. it shows what it is in bold letters, that it is a mag and not some sort of Ion or whatever.

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I would go level 7 and classic valve. The longnose bolt is great, very few chops. I can stick my finger in the breech and it just kisses my finger before resetting. I have let to see a compelling reason to go to a level 10 or an x-valve. ROF is the only reason touted, and it's not what I'm looking for anyway.
not to sound snide, but if you can tune a L7 bolt better with springs, than AGD with all there R&D, you're a better man than all of AGD. there was a reason that the L10 was made, and i don't/can't see a simple spring being better than all of that. and, though you say that you very few chops, the only time i break paint is when it breaks in the barrel, not a chop. so to me, the L10 works, and will work 1000 times better than a springed L7 bolt any day of the week.
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Old 12-19-2010, 01:18 AM   #12 (permalink)
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IMHO y and z grips are great grips under 90% of conditions. Y grip pulls the tank forward and allows for a tighter package.The only time I regret having one is when im on my knees/elbows low to the ground my y grip pulls the gun in way to much to the point the valve is smashed into my face.
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Old 12-19-2010, 02:04 AM   #13 (permalink)
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From an asthetic point of view, the y-frame looks out of place on a karta. The y-frame is too angular for the organic lines of the karta.
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Old 12-19-2010, 03:05 AM   #14 (permalink)
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not to sound snide, but if you can tune a L7 bolt better with springs, than AGD with all there R&D, you're a better man than all of AGD. there was a reason that the L10 was made, and i don't/can't see a simple spring being better than all of that. and, though you say that you very few chops, the only time i break paint is when it breaks in the barrel, not a chop. so to me, the L10 works, and will work 1000 times better than a springed L7 bolt any day of the week.
I'll make a video and test it to the best of my ability. I'm only using stock AGD parts. I've always run springs in my mags, as spacers tended to give me trouble. The only mag I have running right now is my pump mag. Before you cry foul, remember that the main spring is cut. Less rearward resistance should equal faster bolt speed, right? If you insist on otherwise, I might be able to swap some parts around and make it semi.
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Old 12-19-2010, 04:20 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I'll make a video and test it to the best of my ability. I'm only using stock AGD parts. I've always run springs in my mags, as spacers tended to give me trouble. The only mag I have running right now is my pump mag. Before you cry foul, remember that the main spring is cut. Less rearward resistance should equal faster bolt speed, right? If you insist on otherwise, I might be able to swap some parts around and make it semi.
cut main spring, spring powertube and a pump kit; faster bolt speed but more resistance because of the pump, as well as a spring is indicative to cause bolt stick, curse to a semi, benefit to a pump. i have never used a pump mag(came out before i started playing and never wanted to pick up one of the renaissance of newer pump mags), so i am unfamiliar with the tuning aspects of it, but i fully understand the working of mags(had mine new in 99, been with me ever since).

the cut mainspring won't necessarily cause as faster forward bolt speed, just a lighter return. the pressure of the dump chamber is greater than the spring's strength at resistance, which allows you to fire and have the bolt return to the firing position. stronger spring won't allow the mag to fire, and a lighter one, may not return the bolt fully back, allowing the cycle to reset itself. the cut spring won't do anything for firing.

though, i have had people tell me differently on my mag, when i put in the L10 in and my efficiency went up(i can get about 1100 off of a 68/4500, before typical mag 900 off of a 68/4500). maybe it was how i tuned it, maybe i had a good bunch of gremlins, but i can only have my word. you want to take a vid, go ahead, i'll be the first to eat my words, but what you are saying does not make sense and goes against everything that i know about mags, and what has been written about by people smarter than me about mags.
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Old 12-19-2010, 12:52 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Tested before filming. In pump mode, the bolt destroyed paint. In semi, it cracked the shell. Looks like you were right. While it does not hurt my finger, it is enough to break paint. I guess I just haven't been shooting fast enough to get a chop.

I'm not sure what you meant about resistance from the pump though, there's nothing touching the bolt at rest besides the sear. The pump rod only connects with the bolt when you pump it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Usagi Tetsu
Velcor is within all of us, you need not go looking for him. He sayeth, "wherever two or more of you are gathered, there shall I be." He is my solid bunker for me to hide behind from the incoming fire of mine enemies, He is the functioning regulator which keepeth my shots consistent, and He is my keen eye guiding my fire towards my hidden enemies. Yea, whosoever shall believeth in Him shall be guided by His right hand towards the flag, and whosoever denieth Him shall reside for all eternity in the Deadbox of Life.
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Old 12-19-2010, 01:04 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Yeah, If you're going to pump the mag a lvl 10 is only a headache.

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Old 12-19-2010, 05:00 PM   #18 (permalink)
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What about an Airwalk frame? I've always wanted to give one of those a try, it was between that an a UMF when I put mine together. It would flow kinda nicely with the Karta, and if you hold out for one of Mongooses new foregrips, that would really flow with the Karta I think.
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Old 12-19-2010, 08:36 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I had looked at some of them. I don't know, I wasn't too crazy about them. This one isn't too bad though.



I'm just very fond of the carbon fiber. Probably stems from the carbon pump handle on my S6. I was thinking it would look damn good with the deadlywind barrel too. As far as the frame, I'm not sure what the Airwalks look like. I'll have to do a little research, but I'm liking that Triton frame the best so far. Closest thing to the CCM *86 frame.

The gears were turning before, too. I got a little curious, and apparently the screw spacing on my mag frame and S6 frame are VERY close. If not identical. Has anyone ever had any success repurposing a nice cocker frame to a mag?
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Old 12-19-2010, 08:40 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pif View Post
Tested before filming. In pump mode, the bolt destroyed paint. In semi, it cracked the shell. Looks like you were right. While it does not hurt my finger, it is enough to break paint. I guess I just haven't been shooting fast enough to get a chop.

I'm not sure what you meant about resistance from the pump though, there's nothing touching the bolt at rest besides the sear. The pump rod only connects with the bolt when you pump it.
as i said, i am unfamiliar with pumpmags, so in all honesty, i don't know how the pump attaches to the bolt. i thought that it was in the traditional sense of sherdian or nelson pumps.

though i do find it odd that you say that it's light enough to bounce off you finger but strong enough to break paint.
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