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Old 01-06-2011, 04:35 AM   #1 (permalink)
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mouscacha's mag

So, I decided to move the conversation from the picture thread here. I think the mods would appreciate taking conversations to a separate thread.

So, I was trying to describe the on/off assembly, when someone said pictures would be a good idea. I think it was randy-something.... punk... haha j/k.

Here's the pic of the unknown on/off. I ordered it so long ago, I forgot who made it



And the only part of the mag that was made by agd is this.

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Old 01-06-2011, 04:36 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Glad I could help. ;-) Wish I knew how to help with your on/off issue, but I'm a Mag noob.

Randy...
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Old 01-06-2011, 04:41 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Wow! That was a 1 minute response! Damn dude!
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Old 01-06-2011, 11:01 AM   #4 (permalink)
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The larger and smaller o-rings are essentially dead. The smaller one should be a match for the RT on/off inner o-ring. The larger one will still be the level 7 power tube size. I've never memorized the sizes.

You would probably replace the base o-ring as well.

An RT o-ring kit might be the thing for that.

I don't see the shoulder on the top of the pin being very helpful (nor bad). You might run a little metal polish over that pin. Shiny pins are slick pins.
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Old 01-06-2011, 03:21 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks spider. I thought it was a complete goner, since it doesn't use the same size parts as a stock mag.

As a caveat to this thread, does an x-valve work that much better?
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Old 01-06-2011, 04:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mouscacha View Post
Thanks spider. I thought it was a complete goner, since it doesn't use the same size parts as a stock mag.

As a caveat to this thread, does an x-valve work that much better?
The top o-rings still have to match the AGD sizes, since that's about the only way to fill the seal area. The bottom (small) o-ring should be the same as the RT. You would really have to go out of your way to build the on/off with that one diameter different. I have a classic on/off that I filled with brass and put an RT pin into that is basically the same thing.

On a single frame setup, without looking for a reactive trigger, that on/off in a classic does pretty well. With a level 10 bolt, you can wear your finger out and never chop a ball all day. You can pneu or EP a classic. It seems to take a lot of patience to use a hyper frame on a classic.

You can do more with an X-valve, like RT and ULT triggers. It will do everything a classic will do, twice as fast, twice the cost (level 10 on both), and about half the weight.

You really have to look at what you want for sustained rate of fire. The main limit on the classic is the trigger action. It's not easy to pull 8 bps for some length of time mechanically on a classic. Pneus will get you 10 to 14 (with practice). Electronics will get you above 14 bps, but then you have created a different monster altogether.

You have more options with the x-valve, but RT'ing is not completely accepted and ULT setups don't equal an electronic trigger. By the time you've decided to put a pneu or EP frame on it and add a level 10 bolt, The extra money for the x-valve is not a huge difference.

While the valves are widely interchangeable, you kind of build a mag toward a particular style of play. I find RT mags a little unsociable for rec ball, but often enjoy them in scenarios. Also, sometimes it is nice picking up a marker with no lpr, no batteries, and a minimum of seals; that may or may not be a classic valve, but it's not going to run faster than a gravity loader.

I think that's why a lot of AO'ers are also on MCB, we tend to have different markers for different occasions.
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Old 01-06-2011, 05:26 PM   #7 (permalink)
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That on/off is actually for one of the old e-grip frames (Booya or Centerflag). I have one just like it.
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Old 01-06-2011, 06:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Spider:
Thanks again for the explanation. It seems there are a lot of options, and I think it'll require more studying to see what direction to take. Honestly, my mag has always been my project gun, and I hardly bring it out to shoot. Probably for good reason, since it requires a lot of paint

p.s. I haven't been on AO for a LOOOOOOOOOOOOONG time. I wonder if I still have a login there.

Ando: Thanks for the reference. I'm going to see if I can track some down to purchase some spares...
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Old 01-06-2011, 08:43 PM   #9 (permalink)
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It's probably galactic on/off. 90 percent certain. Pretty rare.

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/ravi/Art.../Galactic.html
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Old 01-06-2011, 09:24 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I think your on it Beasto. The on/off for the Booya, Centerflag and the Galactic all have shorter bodies and a larger on/off top (the red/brass part of the on/off). They all work the same way. The pics in the link are a lot better and after re-looked at the pic you posted mouscacha. I would have to say that's what you got due to the lip in the top part of the on/off pin. I didn't see the lip at first due to the blurriness of the pic you posted but ya you got a Galactic on/off. I also have one in my Z-Body. I'll take a few pics of it tomorrow. I converted it into a pump

If you can't find orings for it let me know. All the orings should be the same as the classic except for the small inner one. I believe I got mine out of my RT kit. I'm pretty sure the oring I used is the same o ring for the RT reg seat. I'll recheck it tomorrow and let you know.
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Last edited by Ando; 01-06-2011 at 09:36 PM.
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