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Old 01-12-2011, 01:12 PM   #11 (permalink)
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shouldnt be hard getting that gun up and running ive fixed up some guns that looked like they hadnt seen the light of day in 15 years...lol
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Old 01-12-2011, 02:08 PM   #12 (permalink)
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shouldnt be hard getting that gun up and running ive fixed up some guns that looked like they hadnt seen the light of day in 15 years...lol
You're right...it seems to be humming right along now (though I'll need to take delivery of my new chrono to know for sure things are sound). I gave the barrels (which were unbelievably cruddy), the mainbody, and the bolt and mainspring a nice, hot, soapy bath. At first I was wondering, "What the hell is all this greenish corrosion in the cracks and crevices on the mainbody (around the base of the feedneck, some spots where the body meets the rail)?" And it was stubborn stuff...just wouldn't come off. Then I remembered the oddly painted stock barrel and the gravity hopper that came with it...both painted OD. Rather than disassembling the gun to paint it, I guess he just hastily masked parts off and sprayed away! But it's not too bad...and hey, the gun wasn't very expensive!

While I had it apart, I decided to switch grip frames. I owned a Micromag once, back in the day, and I tend to like .45 grip frames (on my Phantom, for instance), but the potmetal AGD/WGP frame with its cheap, hard plastic panels...I dunno, it just feels better. So, I installed that. But when I went to move the bottomline ASA from the Benchmark frame to this one, the screws don't seem to fit. Did the stock grip frames take a different bottomline screw than the Benchmark?

Despite that, I gassed it up. (I watched the whole Tom Kaye video late last night, which was friggin' great. Really invaluable.) I'd dropped three drops of Gold Cup oil into the ASA last night, so I didn't oil again. Tight as a drum. I did his little "hold the trigger down" test, and the on/off seems sound. So, a testament to the engineering of this thing that a gun that doesn't seem to have been very well-maintained in the past, and seems to have sat in a closet for many years, essentially picks up right where it left off! Just need to get this ASA mounted. I'll definitely pick up a parts kit (THANKS for the bargain link!), and I'm talking to someone about a Lvl 10. Then the madness begins...

...Warp feed, maybe?
...gas-through stock and coiled remote to a 68/45 on my back?
...or go the opposite direction and get a 22/30 to run bottomline (and just refill after each trip to the woods)?
...sight rail and Armson OEG?
...track down a twist-lock Freak back?

I feel like a kid again!

Randy...
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Old 01-12-2011, 02:14 PM   #13 (permalink)
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If the mag smith has an RT on/off on sale, that would be worth while. It would cut your trigger pull in half.
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Old 01-12-2011, 02:25 PM   #14 (permalink)
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He does ($30), but that would only encourage me to try to race through paint, which isn't really what I'm going for. I'll definitely keep it in mind if the heavy trigger pull (which doesn't feel that heavy to me) bothers me down the road.

That RT on/off just drops right in as a replacement into a Classic valve? That doesn't make it reactive, though, does it?

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Old 01-12-2011, 02:41 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I'd get the RT on/off for sure. It's a worthwhile upgrade that I'd suggest before the level 10. It's not really a drop-in mod, but very simple to tune. There are different size pins that are used to tune the trigger.
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Old 01-12-2011, 02:43 PM   #16 (permalink)
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take the grip panels off your frame, on the AGD Carbon Fiber frame there should be 2 square nuts that the bottomline screws thead into, they may not be there, or may be stripped, that may be why your bottomline wont screw on
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Old 01-12-2011, 02:44 PM   #17 (permalink)
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He does ($30), but that would only encourage me to try to race through paint, which isn't really what I'm going for. I'll definitely keep it in mind if the heavy trigger pull (which doesn't feel that heavy to me) bothers me down the road.

That RT on/off just drops right in as a replacement into a Classic valve? That doesn't make it reactive, though, does it?

Randy...
classic valves arent reactive, but the RT on/off helps lighten the trigger pull
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Old 01-12-2011, 02:44 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I'd get the RT on/off for sure. It's a worthwhile upgrade that I'd suggest before the level 10. It's not really a drop-in mod, but very simple to tune. There are different size pins that are used to tune the trigger.
Help me understand this. (Not saying you're wrong, I just don't get it.) How is a lighter trigger pull a better upgrade than something I hear is a pretty darned reliable anti-chop upgrade?

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Old 01-12-2011, 02:45 PM   #19 (permalink)
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he probably means that the RT upgrade is cheaper than the lvl 10 anti chop upgrade..atleast thats what im assuming..
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Old 01-12-2011, 02:56 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Yep, it's cheaper and much easier to install. The level 10 can be a pain, especially for a new mag user. A lighter/shorter trigger pull usually means less short-stroking as well. The level 10 does a lot better with old/brittle paint though.

A nice hopper will usually pick up the slack when a classic doesn't have level 10. It's cheaper than a new level 10 kit and can be used on all your markers.
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