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|01-11-2011, 05:57 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Irving, TX
Got my new ancient Automag...now to bring it back to life!
I picked up a right-hand, straight-feed Automag (CF02676) off eBay and I can tell it's going to need some clean-up and tuning before it's really right for the field.
First off, I checked the stickied Automag Troubleshooting thread here and had a few questions:
I suppose what I really need is an exploded diagram, some basic maintenance instructions, and an idea of what kind of parts kit I need to buy. Also, for a woodsballer, is a Level 10 pretty much needed?
That's all for now. Pics when I get a chance.
|01-11-2011, 06:47 PM||#3 (permalink)|
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Kaneohe, HI
You can check here for your questions in the first post.
Airgun Designs - Download Manuals, Diagrams and Instructions
The parts kit you are buying may not be needed immediately, but definitely great to have around.
|01-11-2011, 06:50 PM||#4 (permalink)|
WVU paintball #19
The field strip screw goes through the rail brushing. It's made of brass and usually stays attached to the rail.
I'd use the stock frame to adjust the rod length if you don't have calipers. It's hard to judge the rod length on benchmark frames.
A rebuild kit should be all that you need unless it's missing parts or leaking from the piston.
|01-11-2011, 06:50 PM||#5 (permalink)|
Closed bolt FTW
the rail will have some bushings where the frame screw and field strip screw go through it, cant miss them they just push right out.
a parts kit is super helpful as well it has all the seals for the gun. If you dont know how an automag works or how its put together watch all 9 parts of these videos. I just got my first automag and it super super helpful
YouTube - Automag video with Tom Kaye pt1/9
Level 10 is helpful without a doubt just expect the occasional chop if you dont have one.
|01-11-2011, 10:44 PM||#6 (permalink)|
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Houston, TX
There's one rail bushing; it holds the frame and rail in alignment with the valve.
The old frames work the same. The little tongue on the trigger is just a stop for the safety iirc. I still use my metal frame on an x-valve setup. You have to check that gap between the trigger and the rod whenever you change frames. Some are slightly different. It doesn't have to be perfect, just a little gap or a big one that still lets you trip the sear. No gap can cause a few problems, the least of which is shoot down and chuffing.
It is possible you have an old metal WGP autococker frame, instead of the old automag frame. They shared some of the same frame parts before the fiber frame. You can still put a fiber frame on an WGP sniper. Does yours have a sear built into it?
Get used to the other maintenance before you start on a level 10, whether that is a day or a year. Some people start fiddling with their on/off at the same time they are having trouble with the level 10. They are not that hard as long as you can keep level 10 tuning a separate issue.
some things are stickier than others
|01-12-2011, 11:44 AM||#7 (permalink)|
Join Date: Oct 2008
The best price I have found for parts kits is here The Mag Smith | Mag Parts Kit
That is almost half of every other site I could find. I have checked around and most charge the same price as agd and I would rather buy from agd if I am going to pay the same price.
|01-12-2011, 12:33 PM||#8 (permalink)|
sounds like these guys have you on the right track, remember before you start swapping seals, run some oil thru the marker, it does wonders
hope my sticky helped
|01-12-2011, 12:55 PM||#9 (permalink)|
I've porked many
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Yorktown, Virginia
If meat is murder, I'll have a beer with the murder please.
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Last edited by pillage; 01-12-2011 at 01:02 PM.
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