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Old 05-19-2007, 09:12 AM   #1 (permalink)
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mag trigger adjustment

This week, I finally got all my markers working, so now I am thinking about how to make them better.

My minimag has a level 10 kit now, so I want to shoot faster (naturally). I'm getting a double trigger with the plan of making my own trigger guard like I did for my Pro/Carbine. However, the trigger pull is rather heavy, and there isn't anything that seems adjustable (e.g., springs, like on most markers).

The factors that seem to affect trigger pull are:

- Amount of friction of moving parts

- The front of the sear that catches the bolt

- The pin in the on/off valve moving against the o-rings

- Pressure - amount of pressure you have to overcome to activate the on/off valve (I don't think I can do anything about this, but I thowing it in here as a factor).

I know an ULE Trigger Kit will make the trigger <1lb, but I'd like to know what I can do myself without installing that kit.

I'm sure that this was a topic that was discussed endlessly back in the day... I'm about 15 years late to the party, so please share with me the wisdom gleaned over that time.

Thanks, MCB!
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Old 05-20-2007, 06:54 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdawg View Post

- Pressure - amount of pressure you have to overcome to activate the on/off valve (I don't think I can do anything about this, but I thowing it in here as a factor).
This is what you want to work on, the other stuff is negligible. You can get a ULT (fancy on/off) for an X-valve, or a Reactor on/off (another fancy on/off) for classic valves. In some cses you can have a classic or retro valve milled to accept a ULT.
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Old 05-20-2007, 09:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Don't use a ULT on a classic valve. You will just have shootdown and chuffing. Only use the ULT on an X valve or similar. For a Classic valve, do not mess with the sear itself. The trigger rod that attaches to the sear is okay to mess with, but the sear itself is a no no! There is a trigger mod done by Luke of Luke's Customs where the clevis on the trigger rod is moved up slightly on the sear. This will do a little for the pull, but not make it electro-light. The on/off is your best chance for making it lighter. Use a stock RT-Pro X-valve) on/off will make it lighter, but again not electro-light. Also, try to use HPA it will help with resetting the trigger at a quicker rate. Especially if it is an adjustable tank.
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Old 05-21-2007, 12:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Recently I modded a race frame and trigger meant for an electro cocker to work on my Classic. Thinking that I'd be smart I drilled the little seat hole for the sear rod to fit into further down the trigger than stock by about 3/16. The thinking was to make the trigger throw shorter and to increase the amount of kick forward from the valve pin and get a more lively trigger. It did shorten the pull required but at the same time it made the amount of pull I needed to fire it a lot more. Enough that I didn't like it. So I plugged that hole and re-drilled up where the stock trigger's seat hole was located. I guess they tried a lot of options and settled on the best compromise.

If you had this hole slightly closer to the hinge pin the pull would be lighter but the amount of travel needed would go up. Again I'd be surprised if the folks at AGD didn't try all this and settle on the best compromise.

Without getting into the parts swapping yoiu mentioned I'd say that a good polishing of the sear's hook and the lip of the bolt would be the best way to reduce the release pressure needed.

Another option would be to find a micro ball bearing and insert it into the sear and make up a new hinge pin with slide on side bushings. I'm really not sure this would produce any major improvements but it's one possible area that may produce some gains in smoothness only. But really the leverage arms are so long compared to this hingepin that I think any gains would be minimal. Unless the ease of movement would let the valve pin "kick" help to reset the trigger back forward easier.
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Old 05-21-2007, 04:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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A "Reactor" on/off won't do anything for trigger pull. It was a less restrictive on/off then the ones available back in the day, that's all. AGD fixed the design around 1996.

However, a Hyperframe on/off will give you a lighter trigger. I have a friend who swears by them.

I have an Intelliframe on my 'Mag and I find the trigger pull to be decent. Maybe you should think about one of those for your double trigger mod.
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Old 05-21-2007, 05:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the great replies.

Yesterday I took my mag to the field and bagged an Ego. It shoots fast enough for me to live with, I've decided.

Intelliframes are still really expensive... instead of spending $75-100, I think I'll make my own double trigger guard to go with $4 Dye double trigger from action village.
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