Paintball

[Matt DRown]

So I got a chance to take my "new" RT mag out for play a second time yesterday. Had some minor issues, and wanted to see if I'm doing things right.

I have a RT valve, level 10 bolt, in a PF body, dye stainless boomstick, and a rotor feeding the paint.

First day of play, I was running 650psi into it from a ninja reg on a 45/45, and don't remember any huge problems.

Second day of play, chrono'd with the 650psi tank at 265 range, brought to field, hand chrono showed 290-300. Went back to chrono, and grabbed my older 68/45 that outputs 900psi.

At this point I was getting double feeds (I assume I should do something with the nubbin in the barrel?).

I went back to the 45/45 and had a pretty consistent 290-295 chrono, but had problems bringing it in to the 275 range without getting a lot of the level 10 anti-pinch engaging.

Reading this morning it sounds like I should swap in a shorter bolt return spring. Does this sound like what I need to do to get the velocity down consistently without hitting the anti-pinch?

With the 900PSI input I triggered the anti-pinch a lot more. And I did notice that the double feeds were much more with the rotor on, vs off, so perhaps my bigger problems is the detent.

While playing I managed to get a lot more barrel breaks, but I suspect due to double feeds. Paint was tiny (dxs gold in norcal), barrel is large.

I'm hoping to swap out to a tac-one or ULE body soon, to get the body based detents, and tighter bore barrels.

Anyways any suggestions would be welcome, thanks.

[evilkid94]

Try turning the tension down on your rotor, it may be pushing the paint past the detents.

[Matt DRown]

Will check out the rotor tension.

One other quick odd thing. I wanted to remove the CP on/off because I've had it back out a couple times in the middle of a game, and replace it with a classic duckbill bottomline. Unfortunately it looks like the intelliframe doesn't support normal duckbills (I have older ones that go straight back that work on WGP frames without issues). Anyone know why this is?

[Ando]

Your pretty much on the ball. You've answered most of your questions. The intel frames should work with the duckbills unless you have a spider type which the holes will be off.

Def ck your rotor. Put it on the lowest setting and test it.

The detents on the barrel might be worn too. A good fix for that is either replacing them or tightly put tape around where the detents go into the barrel. That will help to push them in further into the barrel.

I would keep with the 900psi tank, go with a weaker spring (gold or red) to lower your velocity and you might need to retune your lvl 10 to keep it from chuffing/activating/bolt stick.

[Matt DRown]

re: inteliframe. I'll see about a post, but it's not spyder offset, it's two inline, it's just the frame bottom is too long for the duckbill to lay flat. The curve on the duckbill for the asa occurs about an 1/8" too early (or the frame too late).

I think I got a handful of extra nubbins when I got the gun, so will look at the spare parts kit to see what I have before I jury rig anything. I know my bolt springs are different length, but they were different lengths, will have to look.

[Zoo]

I ran into fit issues with a duckbill on one of my Intelliframes. I ended up just getting a spacer to get a little separation between the two.

[Twilight]

i think the double-feeding could also be a result of the lvl10. the nubbins in the barrel are not as strong as ball detents. when the lvl10 chuffs, you're probably pushing the ball past the nubbin causing a double feed.

stick w/ the 900psi tank & gold or red spring. 650 is too low for lvl10. you may get it to work but it won't be reliable and you may get some shootdown when rapid firing. this could also cause the bolt to chuff (and more double feeding)

[Matt DRown]

I went through all my spare parts kits and found a spyder/normal adapter that allowed me to use it as a spacer, and that allowed me to mount the duckbill.

My spring set doesn't have a "red" one, but I appear to have 4 different lengths. I had the longest one in previous two days, I just backed down to the next smaller one that appears that it may have been gold at one point. Gun cycles nicely in my house with this, but no chrono to test. Will test next weekend if I don't end up playing pump.

[oldskoolkillz]

good luck. AGD owner!

[Matt DRown]

So I finally got the gun back out on the field. 900 PSI tank, ULE body now, and an Eigenbarrel as the DXS Gold paint was rolling out of the .679 freak insert.

Shorter return spring + Eigenbarrel I was shooting 300-310. I was able to bring it down to 265 without chuffing, but i was getting spikes into 280 range (275 was field limit). In hindsight, I'll attribute the spikes to the paint/barrel match. But the shorter return spring seemed to fix my level 10 chuff problem at this velocity. I had no double feeds, and no barrel breaks in the two hours of playing. I did chuff while playing a handful of times, but wasn't sure if that was pinching, or me short stroking while firing bursts.

Overall, it seems to work. Though the balance on the gun is now off with the ULE body and the slightly further back 68/45 tank on the duckbill. I may have to rework it again.