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Old 12-04-2011, 02:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
njk
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1st time NEW owner of old mag.

I just bought a mag from super_stanchy, and plan on building a woods ball/ scenario gun. I like my Piranha but am looking for something better(alil faster shooting/lighter/quieter/more accuracy). Planing on Xvalve and Level 10 bolt at some point with maybe a benchmark frame.

I've never owned or even held a mag before, sooo this is all new to me and I have a few questions for you pros:

What are theese Power Tube Spacer Kit (New)
-1x .215
-1x .220
-1x .225
-1x .230
-1x .235
-1x Power Tube O-Ring
and their purpose.

Do I need any extra regs when I get an Xvalve to run compressed air.

Does the stock trigger frame and or Benchmark frame work with the Xvalve.

Can I use a level 10 bolt with my stock valve.

Thanks,
Nate.
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Old 12-04-2011, 03:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The mag spacer kit goes inside the powertube on the valve. The .220 is probably the most often used. They are used to fine tune the air release from the valve. You probably won't need a kit unless you're leaking down the barrel when the mag gets there, and coming from Stanchy, I doubt it will be in that condition.

The mag valve is a venting regulator design, so you don't need an additional reg on compressed air. You can run one on CO2 if you want, but you'll just starve the gun on compressed air.

The stock frame and benchmark frame will both work with the Xvalve. Mags are stupidly modular. None of that "this only fits on a Space Dildo '09, you'll need another one for your '08" nonsense.

You can use a L10 with your stock valve. (see above)

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Old 12-04-2011, 03:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Play with your mag a few times before upgrading it! Seriously, don't go down that road until there are improvements you have identified as necessary. The RT and level 10 kits are awesome, but are not as bombproof as the Classic valve. If you are not chopping paint, I don't see any reason to get a level 10 on a classic.
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Old 12-04-2011, 03:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
njk
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Thanks Robertsr for the info. So which is better for mags CO2 or Compressed air?
I've used spyders, cockers, snipers, Tippmann pro lights & Pro carbine & 98's, ACI F4, PGP's, other old brass, piranhas (pump and semi), ect... But never a mag. Been playing since 96 and remember if you had a mag or cocker you were either someone or had too much money .


Yep Stanchy said he aired it up and and everything checked out good .

Thanks,
Nate.
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Old 12-04-2011, 04:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Realy Russc, hmm I need idiot proof so I might just keep the stock valve. I just figured if I ran compressed air I would need to upgrade my valve to get the most out of the compressed air.

SOOO heres the BIG question what would be the best set up (air sorce, valve, barrel, ect.) for a 1st time Mag owner? PLEASE School my great ones.
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Old 12-04-2011, 04:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
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There isn't a 'best setup' for mags really. I've got 7 mags and they are all(except for 2) set up very different.

You want compressed air as it is more reliable for the mag, but if you decide to go with CO2 the 'best setup' would be to run vertical bottle or get an anti-syphon installed. Maybe a looped length of ss line would help as well. Both are to ensure that no liquid gets to the reg/valve assembly.
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Old 12-04-2011, 06:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Classic valves work great on HPA. Considering all the other CO2 markers you find around here on MCB, average mag setups on CO2 usually aren't worth the effort, imo. If you actually want or need CO2 use, you have good suggestions above.

If you were buying a new HPA tank just for mags, the ninja SHP is great for classics and RT valves (all mags). If you are buying a tank and are not sure about keeping mags at all, the standard ninja reg that runs between 500 psi and 850 psi will satisfy mags and other high and medium pressure setups as well. Weigh the cost of hoses, chambers and fittings with CO2 against an HPA setup, unless you have some sitting around anyway.

Like russc said, play with it and see what you have. If it chops and you have a power feed, make sure you have the later style power feed plug (an $8 or $9 part). The plug can make a big difference.
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Old 12-04-2011, 09:10 PM   #8 (permalink)
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If you use an electronic hopper, the parabolic feedplug will make the difference in whether or not the thing feeds at all.
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Old 12-04-2011, 09:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Electronic hopper is ok. Forcefeed hoppers are the devil.
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Old 12-05-2011, 01:36 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I just used a Ricochet 2K hopper on a new-to-me shooter Mag that had the old style powerfeed plug. It's an agitating hopper, but it still caused paint to stack up in the powerfeed rather than drop into the breech. I changed out the powerfeed plug for the parabolic one, and all that nonsense came to an end.
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