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Old 02-20-2012, 09:47 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spider! View Post
Sometimes other frames and their triggers have shorter or longer trigger throws.
Yeah, it's really bad between stock frames and Benchmark ones. Bitten me more than once.
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:57 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I have already messed with the trigger rod: at some point in the past 4 years I took it out and threaded it back in--so I'll check on that.

If it is something to do with the sear, I have a AM/MM, and I'll check the bushing that it pivots on to make sure it is seated correctly in the rail.

I think Spider! may be onto something: the intelliframe has a stock trigger and the Triton has a viper blade trigger on it. So, there may be a difference there. IIRC, there was a bit of a gap between the trigger rod and the back of the trigger. Maybe too much of a good thing and I'll have to dial the trigger rod out to achieve a smaller gap.

All this complexity just reminds me how much I love my phantoms. But, hopefully it will all be worth it in the end when this gat is shooting buttery smooth. Thanks again everyone.

EDIT: Update: the sear/bushing were in the right place. And the gap between the trigger rod and sear looked appropriate to me and within the range Spider! suggested. The rear thumbscrew becomes very difficult (but not impossible) to turn even when there is a 3/16 gap between it and the grip frame. Leaking down the barrel still persists. I'll try firing it a little later (couldn't right now w/the girlfriend around). I am convinced that you guys are right--it has something to do with the rear thumbscrew and the alignment of the x-valve.
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Last edited by Legolas; 02-20-2012 at 10:58 AM. Reason: update
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:22 AM   #13 (permalink)
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The bushing that was referring to is the one that goes from the rear grip frame hole through the rail. It ensures the frame and rail are lined up.


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Old 02-20-2012, 11:56 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legolas View Post
I have already messed with the trigger rod: at some point in the past 4 years I took it out and threaded it back in--so I'll check on that.

If it is something to do with the sear, I have a AM/MM, and I'll check the bushing that it pivots on to make sure it is seated correctly in the rail.

I think Spider! may be onto something: the intelliframe has a stock trigger and the Triton has a viper blade trigger on it. So, there may be a difference there. IIRC, there was a bit of a gap between the trigger rod and the back of the trigger. Maybe too much of a good thing and I'll have to dial the trigger rod out to achieve a smaller gap.

All this complexity just reminds me how much I love my phantoms. But, hopefully it will all be worth it in the end when this gat is shooting buttery smooth. Thanks again everyone.
Well, at this point, most mags are practically old. There's always a few seals that need replacing. I took my oldest mag out yesterday. After six years and a bunch of paint, I finally had to change out the L10 power tube o-ring out. It was the original o-ring that came with the x-valve upgrade. It started leaking badly when I got into a good spot, so the best solution was to just keep feeding it paint. That changed out easy, but then later in the day my detent started hanging randomly (that was a bit of a pita). It's been a long time since I cleaned a barrel that much. I'll at least have to flush that detent out, if not replace it.

The sad part is my field is considering an all-mode 12.5 bps cap, now that I have my ninja bottle set up for 14 bps. Apparently some of our old, three finger trigger, semi players have been causing trouble with sustained rates in the middle to high twenties.
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:50 PM   #15 (permalink)
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my mag

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mag with intelliframe

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close up of intelliframe with Siberian Elm grip panels made by me

Tried out different screw tensions on the rear thumb screw with the triton frame on. Got it to fire, but it was "coughing" or chuffing, misfiring and in general, not firing happily. Tiny hiss persisted with triton frame. The leak is so small that I literally have to hold the valve against my ear. anything like a running faucet or a refrigerator compressor makes the noise undetectable. After a string of rapid firing the hiss stopped (or I went def enough not to hear it). This may all indicate that it is time to tear it down, lube it up, cross my fingers, and reassemble it. I've just been dragging my heals because I have no mag know-how and I am intimidated by the complexity of the x valve. Oh, well, time to dive in. Oh, yeah and the rail bushing that lines up the frame/rail is definitely not going anywhere. Enjoy the pics.
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"Certainly there is no hunting like the hunting of man and those who have hunted armed men long enough and liked it, never really care for anything else thereafter." Ernest Hemingway, "On the Blue Water," Esquire, April 1936

In the world I see - you are stalking elk through the damp canyon forests around the ruins of Rockefeller Center. You'll wear leather clothes that will last you the rest of your life. You'll climb the wrist-thick kudzu vines that wrap the Sears Tower. And when you look down, you'll see tiny figures pounding corn, laying strips of venison on the empty car pool lane of some abandoned superhighway.

Visit my Etsy store:
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Old 02-20-2012, 06:18 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legolas View Post
The rear thumbscrew becomes very difficult (but not impossible) to turn even when there is a 3/16 gap between it and the grip frame.
"That ain't right."

Will it loosen up if you push the valve forward when you are trying to turn the thumbscrew?

Be careful with the stainless thumbscrew and aluminum x-valve, there have been people that used a wrench to tighten the screw and stripped the threads on the valve.

I did have a crooked thumbscrew once that was a mysterious pain, but it was one of the old ones from a classic valve that was about to come apart.
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Old 02-20-2012, 06:21 PM   #17 (permalink)
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With the valve outside of the body, is it still hard to thread in? Also, try loosening the front frame screw slightly, and see if that helps you thread the thumbscrew in.
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:26 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I'll try both of those ideas. But I keep coming back to the fact that none of these problems arise with the intelli, just the triton... I might have to get in touch with RPG. I hope my triton isn't out of spec. What a nightmare... if that rear hole is off by a millimeter. Well, at least I have a functional gun for now. The end game for this gun will be to put a cheater and microrock into the Triton frame. And cap the valve and put a 2liter on the vert ASA.

anybody know how much I can cut off the sides of a microrock without it blowing up? The microrock is 7/8" and the triton is approximately 27/32".
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"Certainly there is no hunting like the hunting of man and those who have hunted armed men long enough and liked it, never really care for anything else thereafter." Ernest Hemingway, "On the Blue Water," Esquire, April 1936

In the world I see - you are stalking elk through the damp canyon forests around the ruins of Rockefeller Center. You'll wear leather clothes that will last you the rest of your life. You'll climb the wrist-thick kudzu vines that wrap the Sears Tower. And when you look down, you'll see tiny figures pounding corn, laying strips of venison on the empty car pool lane of some abandoned superhighway.

Visit my Etsy store:
http://www.etsy.com/shop/crowsnestwampum

Last edited by Legolas; 02-20-2012 at 07:28 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 02-20-2012, 09:15 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I vote for trigger rod length. With it aired up you should have a small gap between the end of the trigger rod and the back of the trigger.
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Old 02-21-2012, 03:09 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Before you mess with the trigger rod length. Back out the setscrews for the trigger to allow maximum range of motion.
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