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Old 02-21-2012, 09:35 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ta2maki View Post
Back out the setscrews for the trigger to allow maximum range of motion.
As in the setscrews used for trigger stops? Will do. There appears to be an appropriate gap between the trigger rod and trigger and I don't think the trigger stops are inhibiting the range of the trigger pull, but both of these suggestions are certainly worth taking a look at. Thanks for the continued tech support.
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Old 02-21-2012, 10:38 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Set screws = effective trigger rod length
If the set screws are too tight the on/off will not have the necessary range to operate properly.
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Old 02-21-2012, 11:30 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Sometimes I wonder If it wouldn't be easier to have a small adjustable screw to make contact with the trigger rod as opposed to adjusting the rod itself.
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Old 02-21-2012, 11:36 AM   #24 (permalink)
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yeah, I just looked at the frame and the rear trigger stop looks like it might be preventing the trigger from having enough range. All this... and the solution may have been adjusting a tiny little setscrew. (insert Picard/Riker double face palm here)

EDIT: this still doesn't explain the leak down the barrel/difficulty of turning the thumbscrew.

Yeah, Zondo, the trigger rod/trigger interface is the one part of the mag that has me puzzled. For all of the elegance of design in all the other places on a mag the best they came up with is to have the trigger smack into a rod that activates the sear? I don't necessarily have a better solution, but it was just an observation of room for potential improvement. I would think a physical linkage (maybe a clevis of some kind?) would be superior to just having the trigger rod flopping around inside the frame. Then again if the the trigger and rod were connected, disassembly would be a real PITA. I dunno, food for thought. Maybe some of the airmasters here on MCB will devise a superior solution some day.
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"Certainly there is no hunting like the hunting of man and those who have hunted armed men long enough and liked it, never really care for anything else thereafter." Ernest Hemingway, "On the Blue Water," Esquire, April 1936

In the world I see - you are stalking elk through the damp canyon forests around the ruins of Rockefeller Center. You'll wear leather clothes that will last you the rest of your life. You'll climb the wrist-thick kudzu vines that wrap the Sears Tower. And when you look down, you'll see tiny figures pounding corn, laying strips of venison on the empty car pool lane of some abandoned superhighway.

Visit my Etsy store:
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Last edited by Legolas; 02-21-2012 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 02-21-2012, 12:46 PM   #25 (permalink)
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The gap between the trigger rod and the back of the trigger really just tells you that the sear can travel its full throw. If it touches, you can't tell by how much it is crowding the on/off pin. If the sear catches the bolt (which it should do first) but doesn't let the on/off pin down low enough, there's not much flow coming through the on/off top. You're talking a difference of around 0.020" travel.

With the floppy trigger, you just have to set the bolt free. A good bolt spring will let it fire and return it across the top of the sear regardless of what you do, with no interference from the trigger itself. You then have to let off the trigger for the recharge if you haven't already.

It would be nice to have a little disconnector setup for the mag frame though. That's one thing I like about old blowback markers, the trigger disconnect setups.
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Old 02-21-2012, 03:32 PM   #26 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=Spider!;2221014]The gap between the trigger rod and the back of the trigger really just tells you that the sear can travel its full throw.
QUOTE]


I disagree.
(Per TK)
The trigger rod length has to do with the travel of the on/off pin in both directions. The forward travel has to do with the reset of the on/off. It needs a little extra gap to properly reset. If the rod is to tight the pin will get stuck and not reset.

If the gap is to much it will not fully seat at the bottom of its travel blocking the air from the regulator and get stuck.

The trigger stops can affect this even if the trigger rod is set to factory measurements.
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Old 02-21-2012, 04:29 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luke-AO
The trigger stops can affect this even if the trigger rod is set to factory measurements.
Very true. This is why AGD does not endorse trigger stops.
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Old 02-21-2012, 05:23 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Any ideas about the difficult thumbscrew or finicky Triton frame, Rogue?
And thank you for your great products.
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"Certainly there is no hunting like the hunting of man and those who have hunted armed men long enough and liked it, never really care for anything else thereafter." Ernest Hemingway, "On the Blue Water," Esquire, April 1936

In the world I see - you are stalking elk through the damp canyon forests around the ruins of Rockefeller Center. You'll wear leather clothes that will last you the rest of your life. You'll climb the wrist-thick kudzu vines that wrap the Sears Tower. And when you look down, you'll see tiny figures pounding corn, laying strips of venison on the empty car pool lane of some abandoned superhighway.

Visit my Etsy store:
http://www.etsy.com/shop/crowsnestwampum
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Old 02-21-2012, 06:03 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Any ideas about the difficult thumbscrew or finicky Triton frame, Rogue?
And thank you for your great products.
Glad you like it. As youve found, set screws and having them set improperly will cause issues. This is why AGD does not endorse them, and they are a "use as you wish". Some other mfrs years ago offered them, so buyers wanted them. So I make my triggers with them, but will not/do not/have never instructed as to their use.
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Old 02-21-2012, 06:09 PM   #30 (permalink)
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The whole issue I have personally found with over tightening the rear screw has to do with bolt stick. But I have found it is mostly (If not only???) an issue with the stainless steel bodies. What happens is over tightening the rear screw will miss align the bolt in the breach of the original twist lock barrels.

The stainless bodies are not perfectly straight; most have a small bow in them end to end. The o rings on the barrel seem to help keep the alignment between the breach and bolt. When the body is bowed some and you crank the rear screw down the o rings give enough to allow the misalignment and cause the bolt to stick.

I donít think Rogues frame is a problem; you just need to get the adjustments correct. Start by completely loosing the set screws. Get the valve functioning correctly, THEN set the trigger screws.
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