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Old 04-23-2012, 09:21 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Location: looking through the knotholes in granny's wooden leg

Thanks guys, that was all good information. I cant seem to find the sear I thought I had, so now I am off to look for (correct me if I am missing something):
1. Minimag body
2. sear assembly and pin
3. front body screw and field strip screw?

New question, will the Minimag vavle run on CO2?
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:54 AM   #12 (permalink)
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New question, will the Minimag vavle run on CO2?
Yes. Considering your parts box, make sure you use the little white teflon o-rings on the pin in the on/off. They handle CO2 better than other materials that might be in there.
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:10 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Location: looking through the knotholes in granny's wooden leg

I think I might see the problem here, is the roll pin in the back of the rail that lines up with the rear grip hole, is that supposed to be flush on the valve side of the rail? Mine sticks up and interfears with the body and valve.
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Old 04-23-2012, 12:17 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I think I might see the problem here, is the roll pin in the back of the rail that lines up with the rear grip hole, is that supposed to be flush on the valve side of the rail? Mine sticks up and interfears with the body and valve.
Yes, flush on the valve side. That's the "rail bushing" that should go through the rail and into the grip frame. It should just be a press fit into the rail, although they can get loose and fall out or get stuck really tight. You need that. All sorts of mag gremlins can get in there without a factory spec rail bushing.
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Old 04-23-2012, 01:42 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I had to drill my automag/minimag rail to fit my RTP body. The place where the front frame screw threads in was too long so I drilled the rail to it would sit flat.
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Old 04-23-2012, 02:05 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I have a polished Minimag body at home if you want to do an even swap body for body pm me!
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