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Old 05-11-2012, 07:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by gunman_2000 View Post
The best help we can give, is don't get into Mags.


Now if you want to not have money for other things, and multiple fun markers, do what these guys have said. If you want a cheap classic as a reliable beater, do that. If you want something snazzy and amazing, start from the ground up. Find the parts you want and just build your dream gun.

I bought a mag, ULE body, Xvalve, it was a good start but I still replaced EVERYTHING except the valve and put about a grand into it and 3 years getting parts. But it is mine. If I didn't need the cash I would still have a second mag just from the parts.

This is how they breed. Watch your wallet.
To build one from the ground up can i get a list of parts from you guys? That sounds alot more fun
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:38 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I'm sure someone will post up a total list with pictures. but you will need:

Grip Frame- tons of options here too. Single trigger, Intelliframe, Triton, UMF (my fav), 90 Degree styles (M90, Chimera, VER).

Rail- AutoMag/MiniMag (AM/MM, its the short one) or RT style (the long one)

Sear- (fits inside the rail, AM/MM and RT styles are different, you have to get the one that belongs with your rail. Includes trigger rod usually)

Body- you can go classic stainless steel, or if you want fancy (you probably do) there are many, many types of ULE (Ultralight) centerfeed bodies available.

Valve- Stick to the Classic/Minimag, or RT Pro style (Emag, RTPRO, X-valve) The classic RT valve only works in Classic RT's. For the best performance just grab a new/used X-valve, it comes with all the goodies for about $200-250.

Barrel- ULE bodies are cocker threaded. Stainless bodies are twistlock (great system i think).

Macroline fittings and hose (or steel braid if you want to be safe)

Screws, rail bushings (these most likely will come with whatever main parts you get)

Gas thru grip/fore grip (you don't need a reg, these are just to hold onto really and make it look pretty, you don't NEED it tho)

Air tank if you don't have one. Mags don't really like CO2 (especially X-valves).

Maybe a parts kit (make sure it matches your valve)

I think thats it. Your best bet for parts is probably Automagsonline, I got most of my parts from there I think just watching the BST's and jumping on neat items that people put up for sale. There will never be a shortage of cool parts over there. Really you just need to have an idea of what you want, and then have the money to get it all. A nice new body and rail combo can run you around $300, X-valve around $200, grip frame $100-150. So there is $600 or so right there on 4 parts.
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Originally Posted by Friedmoose View Post
automags are easy on the upkeep to, from what my friends have told me u can clean them with a hammer
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We can always hack and mold it the way we want it. This is MCB after all....
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Old 05-15-2012, 07:27 PM   #13 (permalink)
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well what I really want is just a working dependable mag and i want to buy a warp feed for it so ill probably just have to buy a new body and warpfeed, correct?
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Old 05-15-2012, 07:41 PM   #14 (permalink)
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You don't NEED a different body. Ptp made an adapter that view into other feeds. Old stainless bodies also had a longer plug made to use the bottom of the power feed for a warp. I have one of the Ptp adapters for my mag. Doesn't look as clean as a warp body but it works. Most rails need to be milled out to use a warp feed anyway. Luke makes a few rail styles that don't need to be milled tho.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Friedmoose View Post
automags are easy on the upkeep to, from what my friends have told me u can clean them with a hammer
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crimson Death View Post
We can always hack and mold it the way we want it. This is MCB after all....
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Old 05-15-2012, 07:51 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunman_2000 View Post
You don't NEED a different body. Ptp made an adapter that view into other feeds. Old stainless bodies also had a longer plug made to use the bottom of the power feed for a warp. I have one of the Ptp adapters for my mag. Doesn't look as clean as a warp body but it works. Most rails need to be milled out to use a warp feed anyway. Luke makes a few rail styles that don't need to be milled tho.
so lets just say i buy a classic mag I could either buy a warp feed body from AGD website or mill my own hole for the warp feed? there a ton of ways to do your saying :P? sorry im very new to the mag world
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Old 05-15-2012, 08:51 PM   #16 (permalink)
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also with the classic mag (the one im looking to buy) i can find new trigger frames and buy ULE bodies for it correct same with the lvl 10 bolt and other upgrades? i will be upgrading it slowly over the course of the years as i use it
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Old 05-15-2012, 10:20 PM   #17 (permalink)
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You can do it like this with a classic Powerfeed body (or minimag too) (nabbed from AO picture thread)


What I meant about the warp body, is the feed hole that comes out the side is slightly blocked by the rail. If you have a regular rail, you would have to mill a spot in it for the warp feed to fit and work. There are a few rails available that do not need to be milled, but I think most of them are custom. I'm not sure if there was a rail originally designed with the warp feed body in question, I never thought to look into it.

But yes, you can get a classic mag, and slowly upgrade parts. You can buy a ULE body (vert or warp) and it will work on the AM/MM classic rail with no problem (except for the slot to be milled for the warp breech).

As long as you don't buy parts for a classic RT, 95% of all Mag parts will work interchangeably. There are a few bits and pieces that don't, but in general everything works.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Friedmoose View Post
automags are easy on the upkeep to, from what my friends have told me u can clean them with a hammer
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crimson Death View Post
We can always hack and mold it the way we want it. This is MCB after all....
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Old 05-15-2012, 11:09 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Just showing up at your field with a Mag will likely be different from everyone there.
They're about the most consistent thing out there, IMHO. I've not adjusted the 262-265fps velocity on mine since I built it. I've replaced a foregrip o-ring in the last 7 years. The original R/T is the ONLY (AGD) model that you can't pop and swap every single part group between any other Mag.

Build one that suits your style of play first, then look at aesthetics. I play forward, so a knife-fight style works well for me.
I had to have a vertical feed with a double trigger. It leaked when I got it, and didn't look anything like it does now (to be honest, I think the only thing tstill there is the sear).
This was the vert body and the double trigger I ended up with, and thought "I wonder what else they make in chrome?" The foregrip extender is a must (read "requirement") if you like drop forwards.

I use a Revvy. I've never used an anti-chop bolt, and the only time I've had a break in the BREECH was when my wire detent broke. I use the plastic ones now.

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Old 05-16-2012, 12:01 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I just saw your mag less that 20 minutes ago while poking through the AO MOTM winners thread! Small.. Forum world?
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Old 05-16-2012, 12:07 AM   #20 (permalink)
One shot one kill
 
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, CA

Quote:
Originally Posted by gunman_2000 View Post
You can do it like this with a classic Powerfeed body (or minimag too) (nabbed from AO picture thread)
http://img805.imageshack.us/img805/2316/sam0145qg.jpg

What I meant about the warp body, is the feed hole that comes out the side is slightly blocked by the rail. If you have a regular rail, you would have to mill a spot in it for the warp feed to fit and work. There are a few rails available that do not need to be milled, but I think most of them are custom. I'm not sure if there was a rail originally designed with the warp feed body in question, I never thought to look into it.

But yes, you can get a classic mag, and slowly upgrade parts. You can buy a ULE body (vert or warp) and it will work on the AM/MM classic rail with no problem (except for the slot to be milled for the warp breech).

As long as you don't buy parts for a classic RT, 95% of all Mag parts will work interchangeably. There are a few bits and pieces that don't, but in general everything works.
So when making a bat post I should be looking for just a classic mag? Just to clarify lol.
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