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Old 05-13-2012, 10:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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68 automag bolt springs differences and body dent repair?

I just picked up a 68 automag, not a classic but older sn 23515. It has the aluminum grip frame, sp wood grips(no on my micromag ). Anyways, I'll post pics later in the week. The gun has a foamie bolt with black foamie. What level would this be? Also it has a regular level 7 bolt. The bolt springs are both black (cleaning up the rust, so steel?) and are about 1/8th of an inch longer than the newer brass looking bolt springs I have in my parts kits. Are the black springs just old and work as good as the newer ones or should I just replace it?

Secondly, the body is a right powerfeed ss body. It has this tiny dint in the end of the body so the barrel can't slip in. How or what should I use to tap it out? Or should I just sand it down?
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Old 05-14-2012, 01:00 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Black springs should work just fine as long as they are longer than the bolt itself. Yes clean them you dont want rust flakes/dust floating around inside the body.

If the dent in the body is all the way at the open end, try using a tapered pin or bull pin to knock it out. Heres an example.

Klein Tools Broad Head Bull Pin — 10in. x 1 1/16in. Top Dia., 1/4in. Point Dia., Model# 3256 | Flex + Ratcheting Wrenches | Northern Tool + Equipment
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Old 05-14-2012, 01:13 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Both AGD and ANS made bolts with round foamies. I think they were both level 7 but maybe someone else can confirm.

If the foamie is 3 pointed it could be AGD level 7 or AGD level 10.

Waiting for pictures.
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:42 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I would definitely look into tapping the dent out over sanding. The hard part is finding something that can reach the dent at a good angle. Something with a little curve to it can sometimes reach inside while keeping the impact in the right direction. A straight punch with a rounded end can reach a little better than a tapered one.
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Old 05-14-2012, 11:55 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Luke's idea seems the simplest and cheapest. I believe I have a piece of pipe that would work for that back in my apartment. I'll give it a try and let you know how it goes. I finished cleaning the gun and dry fired it last night and it cycled fine. The trigger at times seemed a little stiffer than my other two mags, but I couldn't be sure. The sear plate is a little bent but seems to move freely and I steelwooled all the corrosion/paint/crud off of it so I think that is okay.
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:28 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James_Blond View Post
The sear plate is a little bent...
I didn't know they would bend. The RT sears would usually just break at the bushing.
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Old 05-14-2012, 04:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
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^ yeah, It seems much chunkier than my other guns. The plate is a big wide piece of al./steel not sure. It has/had a black finish on it, which I wan't sire was original or just corrosion, I got it feeling smooth and left some of the black on there. But yeah the plat bends a little to one side. The pin and brass forked piece look great.
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Old 05-14-2012, 04:45 PM   #9 (permalink)
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geez where did you find this 'mag, in a dumpster?
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Old 05-14-2012, 05:08 PM   #10 (permalink)
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A couple of things came to mind about that vintage. The power feed plug was of the "bad" variety, especially if the back side is flat (no finger grip).

Some of the "68 Automag" regulators were not lined up with the valve port at 12 o'clock. This caused noticeable shootdown, but can be corrected with a new port drilled at 12 on the reg.

Some of these also had regulator piston relief settings that were set a little too low for the level 10 bolt, but it seems fairly random, especially if you set the velocity lower and with a gold spring.

Springs about 1/4" to 3/8" over the bolt tip are good. The early level 7 bolts had foamies, then they started playing with the foamy-less bolts.

Of all that, the feed plug was the most annoying for me.
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