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Old 06-26-2012, 10:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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68 Classic: Sticky Valve, Metallic Clang

I've acquired my first Automag from a teammate (purchased from a member of Pub Crawling, she's been passed around twice since within my team; I've affectionately dubbed her the *Mag, with "*" representing a slightly suggestive name invoking a garden implement).

The valve itself seems to function just fine, but I believe I have an interference problem. An odd metallic clang is heard with each trigger pull that disappears when the barrel is removed. The valve eventually sticks (I've emptied a full hopper), so it seems pretty clear to me that the power tube is striking the barrel. I've played with the tightness of the rear thumbscrew a bit with no results. What else can I try?

Many thanks!
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Old 06-26-2012, 11:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Pics of the valve, barrel and bolt?
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Old 06-26-2012, 11:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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"68 Automag Classic" valve, standard bolt, Dye one-piece stainless barrel.
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Old 06-27-2012, 02:54 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Only thing going to give you a clang is a missing bolt bumper or the barrel itself. Crown point barrels Sometime act like a tuning fork.
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Old 06-27-2012, 03:49 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I bet you've got a crown point barrel. Those make a cool metallic clang with every shot.
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Old 06-27-2012, 09:00 AM   #6 (permalink)
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If you are hitting the barrel, you should have a mark on the inside. It's possible that the combination of the detent, old barrel o-rings, and tolerances let the detent push the barrel off of that side. Some stainless barrels didn't have very nice detent grooves. That would put any bolt rub marks on the side with the detent.
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Old 06-27-2012, 02:11 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Crown point can make that noise- but check the bolt sides for wear. When I got my Mag it was doing similar... hear a metal clink on each shot and the bolt would stick. The side of the bolt had excessive wear from scraping the body bushing/spring. The power tube was cocked to one side just enough to cause the bolt to drag. It was a used gun (I am 2nd owner), previous owner was a player/shop owner and it was his personal gun. It was very minor when I bought it - he worked on it a couple of times for me at first but as it got worse I called TK.
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Old 06-27-2012, 08:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Complete picture fail. I have not mastered the flash/glare/zoom issues of close-up shots.

The detente is the old wire sort that I mean to replace anyway along with the o-rings. One of my friends has a half-dozen Automag barrels that he'll probably let me try. The bolt definitely strikes this barrel somewhere, but I don't see any definitive marks on either. There are a few right in the center of the barrel wall, but if the bolt were smacking it there the result would have to be catastrophic failure.

If it turns out that the power tube is bent... do I have a paper weight? (and/or an excuse to buy an X-Valve)?

Edit: the blue bumper is present. Also the barrel is a Dye something or other, not a crown point (if you mean the sort with the long triangular muzzle brake porting).

Last edited by Axel; 06-27-2012 at 08:29 PM.
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Old 06-28-2012, 03:17 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axel View Post
If it turns out that the power tube is bent... do I have a paper weight? (and/or an excuse to buy an X-Valve)?
Is the tube bent or is it leaning? If its leaning it may be that you have a valve with a removable power tube. If there is a seam where the power tube joins the main body of the valve it is possible that it was dropped or struck and the power tube is leaning off centre.

If the power tube is straight but the seam at its base has come open on one side it is repairable.

Pictures will help allot.
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Old 06-28-2012, 03:03 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Any chance you could try a different barrel to see if it's that barrel or any barrel?
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Last edited by justme-; 06-28-2012 at 03:09 PM. Reason: removing incorrect information.
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