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|07-16-2012, 03:01 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Cutting Classic Vertical ASA
I have seen a few vertical ASA's where the top was trimmed down (please see attached). What's the maximum recommended cut? Ie. cutting from the top, what's the maximum distance one should cut. Conversely, if it's easier to express, how much aluminium "meat" should be above the air holes on the side of a classic vertical asa? I will be running air through the lines (ie. they're not just there for a foregrip support).
|07-17-2012, 12:55 PM||#2 (permalink)|
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Manch Vegas, NH
I think you want an RT vert ASA that has two screws. What kind of rail do you have? A normal am/mm rail is usually only drilled for a single hole vert ASA with the wings on top, but the "newer" ones have the two holes for the RT ASA which is pictured in your post except for the last marker, the red one which I believe has an RPG stick grip which is grip/ASA combined.
|07-17-2012, 02:02 PM||#3 (permalink)|
My current rail is an ULE'd RT Pro, single front grip mounting hole.
( similar to the 5th picture down from here:
Mag Rail List - PB Legion )
My rail is like the one in the middle of this pic:
I currently have an AM/MM vertical ASA (ie. one like this) where I cut off the top bevelled "horns." It works fine, but I'd like it a bit shorter. I'm just wondering how much "meat" I've got to work with.
I guess I should be asking what's the distance from the top of the air hole to the top of the vertical ASA on a RT Pro Vertical ASA Adapter? Ie. this one:
Vertical ASA Adapter RT Pro
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Last edited by Jaccen; 07-17-2012 at 02:12 PM. Reason: Better pic of a rail
|07-17-2012, 03:28 PM||#4 (permalink)|
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Cottonwood AZ
You can machine your rail to accept the RTP (two screws) ASA or just cut the AM ASA down where you still have enough thread to mount it to the rail. You can not remove the thread completely any anyway because it is drilled to close tolerance of the air passage as it is.
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