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Old 07-26-2012, 09:09 AM   #1 (permalink)
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co2 compatibility

i have a classic valve missing an on off.

i also have a spare x valve on off.

if i install the spare x valve on off into the classic valve, will it be able to handle co2, or am i limited to hpa?
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Old 07-26-2012, 02:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Yes, but you might have some issue with it working. The design of the regulators in each valve system determine the gas you can use, so no matter what on/off you use, a classic vavle can handle co2. The xvalve will most likely have an rt or a ult on/off. The ult won't always work on classic valves.
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Old 07-26-2012, 04:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The RT on/off is usually good, but you would want a teflon top o-ring (the small one).

If you leave the CO2 on it for a long time (all day), it can penetrate the little urethane o-ring in the inside of the on/off body, making it bind. Synthetic grease helps slow that a bit. You could probably find a teflon o-ring for that inside as well.

You probably just need to ask for a classic on/off, if you are willing to go that way. Even a WTB should be $0-$10 shipped. We used to try to think of new things to do with them. I used a couple on experiments, and I'm not sure what I have left atm.
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Old 07-26-2012, 06:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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ok, i have a teflon one on hand.

would i still need the bigger o-ring that goes into the classic valve, or can i take it out with my o-ring pick? (red circled below)

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Old 07-26-2012, 06:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Since when do you own a mag?
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Old 07-26-2012, 06:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Since when do you own a mag?
forever.

i found it and it's now my best candidate for the poo polishing contest, since i've already restored my nelspots.
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Old 07-26-2012, 08:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The RT on/off is usually good, but you would want a teflon top o-ring (the small one).

If you leave the CO2 on it for a long time (all day), it can penetrate the little urethane o-ring in the inside of the on/off body, making it bind. Synthetic grease helps slow that a bit. You could probably find a teflon o-ring for that inside as well.

You probably just need to ask for a classic on/off, if you are willing to go that way. Even a WTB should be $0-$10 shipped. We used to try to think of new things to do with them. I used a couple on experiments, and I'm not sure what I have left atm.
ok. i installed the rt valve with the teflon o-ring and aired the gun up. it shot for a few times and then the trigger failed to reset. i disassembled the gun to find that the teflon o-ring has forced itself past the big bedded o-ring (the one circled above) in the valve hole, to the far side of the valve hole. i imagine that's when the trigger stopped working.

i took them out, and this time removed the big o-ring. as soon as i aired up the gun it jackhammered. then it stopped. i took off the grip frame to see that the on/off pin is stuck outward, therefor also preventing the valve from being removed from the body.

i hammered the pin back down lol. then i disassembled the valve again. this time i see the teflon o-ring has broken.

so does anyone know what to do when the trigger wouldn't return? i tried turning the reg inward but that only caused a leak which i presume is the agd failsafe kicking in.

now i appear to have found pieces that would assemble into a complete classic on/off from the bottom of the parts bin. it seems to be missing an o-ring, which i found 3 possible candidates. are these statements correct? which of the 3 o-rings should go on? i assume it should be the same size as the on one the rt on/off so i can match them to find the correct one, but i want to make sure in case i waste any o-rings.

oh, and the spacer in the bolt was 215 when i aired the gun. i put the 225 in as per the instructions on the back of the box but i have not tried it yet.

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Old 07-26-2012, 10:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heinous View Post
ok. i installed the rt valve with the teflon o-ring and aired the gun up. it shot for a few times and then the trigger failed to reset. i disassembled the gun to find that the teflon o-ring has forced itself past the big bedded o-ring (the one circled above) in the valve hole, to the far side of the valve hole. i imagine that's when the trigger stopped working.

i took them out, and this time removed the big o-ring. as soon as i aired up the gun it jackhammered. then it stopped. i took off the grip frame to see that the on/off pin is stuck outward, therefor also preventing the valve from being removed from the body.

i hammered the pin back down lol. then i disassembled the valve again. this time i see the teflon o-ring has broken.

so does anyone know what to do when the trigger wouldn't return? i tried turning the reg inward but that only caused a leak which i presume is the agd failsafe kicking in.

now i appear to have found pieces that would assemble into a complete classic on/off from the bottom of the parts bin. it seems to be missing an o-ring, which i found 3 possible candidates. are these statements correct? which of the 3 o-rings should go on? i assume it should be the same size as the on one the rt on/off so i can match them to find the correct one, but i want to make sure in case i waste any o-rings.

oh, and the spacer in the bolt was 215 when i aired the gun. i put the 225 in as per the instructions on the back of the box but i have not tried it yet.

http://i.imgur.com/lSArK.jpg
Looks like the big one. You are missing 2 though. One goes in the groove of the lower on/off body and the other goes around the teflon oring. They both should be about the same outer diameter as the on/off body. Assembled, should look like this:
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Old 07-26-2012, 11:15 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Looks like the big one. You are missing 2 though. One goes in the groove of the lower on/off body and the other goes around the teflon oring. They both should be about the same outer diameter as the on/off body. Assembled, should look like this:
http://i.imgur.com/U120A.jpg
ok. check the valve diagram on agd and they are supposed to be the same size, i have more than 2 of those. thanks
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Old 07-27-2012, 10:47 AM   #10 (permalink)
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oh, and the spacer in the bolt was 215 when i aired the gun. i put the 225 in as per the instructions on the back of the box but i have not tried it yet.
Unless you originally had trouble with this before, I wouldn't mess with it. If it used to work ok with the 215, it will probably leak with the 225.
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