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Old 08-22-2007, 01:11 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Washington

trigger adjustment

hello,

i posted on AO, figured i'd try here too.

I just got a mag together (mm valve, RT pro rail-sear-on/off, Intelliframe, ULE). Its working good but if i try to fire fast the trigger pin sticks in the back position. If you leave it alone for a few seconds it will hiss, pop, and reset. I checked with the grips off and the joint where the sear and pin connect is flexing to the side instead of pushing towords the trigger. might it be loosing contact with the on/off, or be missing a piece to keep it lined up correctly. The hinges on the sear/pin combo are pretty loose, but i dont know if thats normal. There is a hole in the sear lever, is it supposed to have a spring to help reset the trigger?

I want to get the trigger adjusted up. how much pull distance is needed to work the sear properly. My triggers too far out to use the rear limiter, so i was going to adjust the sear pin length so i can bring the trigger in to where the rear limiter is doing its job. I dont want to go to far though.

Any help is appreciated, i can get pics if someone needs them.
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Old 08-22-2007, 01:15 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Amherst, Maynard, and Northampton Massachusetts.

It's called "shootdown" but is commonly known as "Chuffing" (hence my old classic mags name, Chuffy). Get a standard mag sear and a standard mag on/off and you should be ok...

RTs have different sears, and different length on/off pins... Also keep in mind that a Classic or Minimag valve will not keep up with Xvalves, RTP valves, or even RT valves which can hypothetically cycle 36 times per second.
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Old 08-22-2007, 01:32 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Join Date: Apr 2007
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RT stuff

Even with the RT rail I need normal sear? Also i though shoot down would just decrease the velocity and give it problems cycleing, not jam up the trigger mech. it seems like it physically gets jammed and you can either wait for it to unjam or push the sear forward and it will work fine again. It will even do it when your not fireing fast, its just a lot more rare.

Ive scene the shootdown when i go fast (havent chrono'd or anything just a leak and cycle test), but this seems to be different.
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Old 08-22-2007, 05:38 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Amherst, Maynard, and Northampton Massachusetts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by djellum View Post
Even with the RT rail I need normal sear? Also i though shoot down would just decrease the velocity and give it problems cycleing, not jam up the trigger mech. it seems like it physically gets jammed and you can either wait for it to unjam or push the sear forward and it will work fine again. It will even do it when your not fireing fast, its just a lot more rare.

Ive scene the shootdown when i go fast (havent chrono'd or anything just a leak and cycle test), but this seems to be different.
Well, if the sear is only half-resetting, it will be stiff... There isn't much TOO go wrong mechanically speaking with the sear assembly on a mag.
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Old 08-22-2007, 07:53 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Join Date: May 2007

Wink Sounds Like Bolt Stick To Me

Its not the sear.
The on/off is not resetting as it should and thats being caused by the bolt sticking.
It sounds like the bolt needs some adjustment.
Does the valve have a level 10 bolt ?
I have a stack of level 10 troubleshooting CD's.
Let me know.
Heres some PDF's of different AGD stuff :

Airgun Designs - Download Manuals, Diagrams and Instructions

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Old 08-22-2007, 03:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Join Date: Apr 2007
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makes a bit o sense

That sounds possible, yes it is a level 10. I'll check it out and thanks for the info. I should be able to look into the feed and see if the bolt doesnt go back. I'll do that now.
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Old 08-22-2007, 03:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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bingo

Bolt stick it is, Ill transfer my attention to the L10 adjustment stuff. Theres sticky's and lots of post about that. Thanks a ton.
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