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Old 08-29-2012, 12:10 AM   #11 (permalink)
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no need for countersinking
Hot glue is awesome!!!
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:50 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Did you drill and tap the reg to hole the valve in?
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Old 08-29-2012, 11:56 AM   #13 (permalink)
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nope
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Old 08-29-2012, 03:12 PM   #14 (permalink)
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ok man, whatever.
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Old 08-29-2012, 03:58 PM   #15 (permalink)
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i said i drilled and tapped the rail. i did not drill the valve. it threads into the rail exactly where your rail is ule'd. and i dont want the rail to be that thin where the frame is attached.


copied from thread on PBN posted by inmylife2415
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:20 PM   #16 (permalink)
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i said i drilled and tapped the rail. i did not drill the valve. it threads into the rail exactly where your rail is ule'd. and i dont want the rail to be that thin where the frame is attached.
And so, the question is...what is holding the valve in place, since the rear frame screw normally does?

I'm guessing there's a screw through the rail, and the head is covered by the frame?

You can build a bushing to go in a ULE rail that will spread the load over the web and closer to the walls. I've used that on fore grips.
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Old 08-29-2012, 07:05 PM   #17 (permalink)
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yes there is another screw, i would rather just drill and tap like i did this one
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Old 08-29-2012, 09:27 PM   #18 (permalink)
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It's an easy fix for any ule rail.
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Old 09-05-2012, 12:42 PM   #19 (permalink)
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It's an easy fix for any ule rail.
easy fix? how?

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Old 09-05-2012, 02:28 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Superman, any reason why you don't want to keep the existing rail and mill it to suit your style? It sounds like you have some mechanical know-how, intend on milling the new rail, and a one of one would be cooler.
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