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Old 10-01-2012, 05:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Leaky mag

I have a mag leaking down the barrel. If I shoot once or twice it usually goes away. I looked in the stickied troubleshooting guide and it says the power tube is bad. I'm assuming this means the oring directly beneath the tip is bad? Can someone shed some light on this for me?

Also would like to know what the difference is between a lvl 10, a X, and a retro valve and which one fit in in a standard mag. I know the the level 10 upgrade will but I don't know what the others are.
Thanks
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Old 10-01-2012, 06:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Lvl 10 is just the bolt and that bolt will work in any valve except ones that are labeled rentals

Do you have a lvl 10 or 7 bolt?

When it does leak, does it go away when you hold the trigger down after firing the marker?
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Old 10-01-2012, 10:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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There's a few good bits in here...

Automags.Org Online Forums - FAQ thread for new and old members alike

and here...

Automags UK, your automag, minimag, automag RT, X Mag and E Mag resource
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:40 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm just going to assume its a stock bolt. Whatever came with it when it was new. I havnt tried holding the trigger back, but it does stop leaking after I dry fire it a couple times. I'll check those AutoMag links out whenever I can get to a computer instead of my phone.
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DP Fusion FX with a Prophecy loader, 70ci Worr Gas, CP drop forward, Dye ASA, TechT bolt and Ram.

Project Ion for my Daughter is finished thanks to all the parts I found on this forum. Thanks Everyone!

Currently working on an .68 Automag and an Autococker.
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Old 10-02-2012, 08:40 AM   #5 (permalink)
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if it stops leaking after dry firing it a couple times good chance just needs some oil. Mags love to be oiled sparingly but often. A drop or two of air tool oil in your ASA prior to airing up is usually all you need dry fire it a couple time and you should be good to go for the day.
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:22 AM   #6 (permalink)
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When you oil your marker, take off the barrel and dry fire it about a dozen times. Then put the barrel back on and you're ready to go. No need to coat the inside of your barrel with oil.

Also, "Level X" and "Level 10" are the same thing, referring to the anti-chop bolt upgrade.
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Old 10-02-2012, 05:32 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I've oiled it plenty. I'll keep tinkering with it.

I wondered if 10 and X were the same (roman numeral thing), but I've seen valves that have a big X on them. I'm just trying to learn. Will any of the RT valves fit in this gun?
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DP Fusion FX with a Prophecy loader, 70ci Worr Gas, CP drop forward, Dye ASA, TechT bolt and Ram.

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Old 10-02-2012, 06:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pbmazda View Post
I've oiled it plenty. I'll keep tinkering with it.

I wondered if 10 and X were the same (roman numeral thing), but I've seen valves that have a big X on them. I'm just trying to learn. Will any of the RT valves fit in this gun?
Throw a pic up, if possible, and you'll get lots of info. The "X" valve is the last version of the reactive valve design. All valves are physically interchangeable with the exception of the original (classic) RT valves, where the body hangs over the regulator in the back. The classic RT has several of its own specific parts, so you have to watch out for that. They perform like mags; they just had a few feature that set them apart.

The sydarm valve was different too, but those don't show up by themselves often.
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Old 10-02-2012, 08:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thank you spyder. I'll throw a pic up of the gun in a couple days. No camera at the moment. My mag isn't much to look at.
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DP Fusion FX with a Prophecy loader, 70ci Worr Gas, CP drop forward, Dye ASA, TechT bolt and Ram.

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Old 10-02-2012, 10:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Valve type rundown:
AGD Valve Info
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