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Old 10-10-2012, 11:27 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thank you for the pointers, Dusty. I'll give it a try then strip it and oil it as you described.

Regarding tanks, I have an 88/4500 Empire tank that I use. The steel tank came with the gun and is a 48/3000 if I'm not mistaken. It feels nice on the mag though. Maybe I'll get a 45/4500 or stubby 70 when I have the funds. For now, if hydro is good, I'll use it!
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:20 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I would hold on to that other barrell also..it looks like the original that came with the marker.
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Old 10-12-2012, 01:04 PM   #13 (permalink)
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You will probably have to turn down the speed on the Rotor if you don't want it to double feed, especially with the extra small paint that's become the norm. I sold my 2k Micromag because I couldn't get it to stop double feeding with my velocity and even my revi some times.
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:08 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I will hold onto the Armson for sure!

Now, I aired it up, and was able to dry fire it, even RT to an extent...all while having a high pressure constant air leak coming from the tiny pin hole on left hand side of the valve body.

Guess ill be stripping it down again!

...tried adjusting pressure/velocity, and also adjusted the field-strip thumb screw.im guessing worn return spring or something with valve body/on-off?

I'll reference the manual, but again I am new to automags, so any help is appreciated!
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Old 10-13-2012, 11:08 PM   #15 (permalink)
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An RT air leak out of the tiny pin hole on the side of the valve is from your regulator pin.
Reg Valve Pin Assembly - Retro

First take it out and look at it. If it looks brown and crappy it might be bad. If the orings look good then try oiling it well, re-install, then dry fire a bunch to see if the leak goes away. If it still persists, then it either needs to be replaced completely, or if the tiny spring pack on it is in good condition still, then you might be able to just replace the two tiny little orings at the end of it and be good. The two o-rings have a plastic spacer oring between them thats split on one side so you can remove it as well, but you shouldn't have to replace it. Lube generously and re-install the reg pin. Once you air up, it could take alot of dry firing the gun to get the reg pin to seat properly with the new orings, or break in a little if its new, and for that leak to dissapear.

This is an expensive little part to replace, but a good one well maintained should last for years.
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Old 10-14-2012, 12:55 AM   #16 (permalink)
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You could just have dirt or teflon tape logged in there. If orings are good then clean out the orfice with a QTip and reinstall.
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Old 10-21-2012, 02:08 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Thumbs up

Hey guys, bought an RT rebuild kit today, so I'll update after the operation!

Thanks again for the help so far!
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Old 10-23-2012, 06:16 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Unhappy Still Leaking...

Still leaking A LOT of air...could use any help you can provide.

See below link to a youtube video I made of the valve and issues I'm having.

Retro Valve Micromag Assembly Troubleshooting - YouTube


Thank you all for any help...I guess I'll have to pull out some calipers to do some measurements, double-check for sear wear, and see what else could be wrong. I'm out of air for now, so whatever hypothetical help you can provide, I greatly appreciate it!
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:38 AM   #19 (permalink)
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you are missing your power tube oring. it goes behind the pt spacer. thats why you have a leak down the barrel. the oring on the tip just keeps the tip from unscrewing. it doesn't need to be anywhere near as tight as you had it.

the bblack aluminum portion unscrews from the stainless portion. thats where your reg pin is. as well as the seat
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Old 10-23-2012, 08:39 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Here's a break down of the valve. The 2 halves that you said were pressed are actually screwed together. It can be tough sometimes to unscrew but they do come apart. Install your thumb screw back in the back and use it as leverage to pop them apart.

The leak at the pin hole is directly tied to #30. Use your pick to pull out the whole assembly by inserting it in the hole at the top part of the stem, that too can be hard to remove but don't worry, you're not going to break it. Just yank it out. You'll see 2 small oring at the end of it. Replace them along with 31, 33, 34 and make sure you put 32 right side up. There'll be a small spacer separating the 2 oring on 30. Yes, it's suppose to look cracked

The leak down the barrel, dukie already covered. You have a lvl 7 so it's going to be #14.

Make sure you unscrew the on/off body and replace oring #19.

Last but not least, if you hadn't already, replace #24 and 28.

EDIT: That valve isn't going to have the #23 oring so don't worry about it.

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Last edited by Ando; 10-24-2012 at 09:31 AM.
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