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flood152 11-18-2012 05:23 PM

Tips for foamies
 
I've lost a foamie on each gun today. Any good tips to get the most life out of them. I tried JB Weld and that didn't do very well.

PVT 11-18-2012 06:42 PM

If you are using JB weld you might want to roughen the metal before applying so it has some grip too it. I have always heard of using epoxy or super glue I don't know that they would hold any better than JB.

ta2maki 11-18-2012 08:35 PM

I'd use contact cement.

sQuidvision 11-18-2012 08:41 PM

i use 15 min epoxy and have never had an issue

Justus 11-18-2012 09:20 PM

Step 1, make sure the foamie and the metal bolt surface are both clean. Very clean.

Step 2, trim off the flared edges ("wings") of the foamie with an exacto knife to reduce the surface that might get caught by air, which causes the foamie to get shot out easier.

Step 3, dampen the bottom of the foamie with water.

Step 3, apply a very thin film of the white Gorilla Glue to the dampened side of the foamie. I use a toothpick to make a nice even, thin layer.

Step 4, stick the glue side on the metal surface of the bolt.

Step 5, stick a 3/4" disc neodymium magnet on top of the bolt to clamp the foamie in place. Let it sit 24 hours.

xero28 11-18-2012 09:24 PM

Is it a Level 10?

Step 1: Leave the foamie off.

Step 2: Shoot the gun without any problems.

Justus 11-18-2012 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xero28 (Post 2537753)
Is it a Level 10?

Step 1: Leave the foamie off.

Step 2: Shoot the gun without any problems.

While this can be true for quite a number of setups, with small enough paint and a force-feed loader you can get a ball to roll back into the foamie-less bolt, causing a double feed. In turn, this can cause a real huge mess and ruin your game until you can break it down and clean it out. On the other hand, foamies are cheap and were designed to go on a Level 10 bolt.

xero28 11-18-2012 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Justus (Post 2537758)
While this can be true for quite a number of setups, with small enough paint and a force-feed loader you can get a ball to roll back into the foamie-less bolt, causing a double feed. In turn, this can cause a real huge mess and ruin your game until you can break it down and clean it out. On the other hand, foamies are cheap and were designed to go on a Level 10 bolt.

True, and nothing against you, sorry if I offended. Just going by my own experience. I had a foamie come off shortly after I installed a Level 10. Left it off, put about 4-5 cases through it without a problem.

Justus 11-18-2012 10:54 PM

No, no offense taken. Didn't mean to come across that way. I've even got one level 10 bolt with no foamie on it right now (been too lazy to put one on). I'll put a foamie on it eventually. Just pointing out the possible pitfalls of not doing the maintenance. It's a risk I've taken on that one for the time being, and a risk that I've heard a lot of people take because of the rarity of it actually becoming a problem.

Menace 11-19-2012 12:27 AM

Surface prep, surface prep, surface prep.

1. Make sure the old gunk is totally cleaned off. Scrub if you have to.

2. Then, liberally rub with acetone. Not mineral spirits, or kerosene, or naphtha. Acetone. You don't want residue of any kind. Solvent alcohol will also work here, but my vote would be for acetone.

3. Then, apply a single drop of super glue/crazy glue/other cyanoacrylate adhesive to the bolt face, without concern for anyone's feelings.

4. Apply foamy with a carefree attitude.

5. Sip your favorite beverage while getting in touch with your inner child. Takes only a few seconds.

6. Shoot umpteen cases of paint at your enemies while contemplating the inexplicable popularity of kissy-face vampire movies. Takes years.

Tom Kaye recommends cyanoacrylate, and for good reason: it's cheap, simple, fast, and effective.

Gorilla glue also works, as will a number of epoxies. But not nearly as well, or as simply, or as quickly, or as cheaply. Few people take the time to learn what adhesives work best for what materials, and conditions. Also, lots of folk fail to appreciate the importance of surface prep.

In short, crazy/super glue is very good for joining plastics (or synthetic rubber) to metals. Which is what you need to do here.

Give it a try, and see if it doesn't do the trick.

Cheers.


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