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Old 12-08-2012, 01:49 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Why dont you just drill & tap the body for the feed? Seems a waste of time to flat out *****r the feed to the body.
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Old 12-08-2012, 02:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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No idea how to drill/tap. And wouldn't that get in the way of the firing/paintball path? The body is not very thick. Yeah, it might be a waste for the body, but the easiest method. I have no intention of using this with a hopper, but if I ever do change my mind replacement bodies are pretty inexpensive.

Thanks for the spring info Tony, shipping is 5$, so not terrible. It should feed 10-12 rounds? If I'm not mistaken.
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Old 12-08-2012, 07:41 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I don't think there is enough meat in the body the tap for threads. You would probably have to tap the barrel too.
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:40 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I don't think there is enough meat in the body the tap for threads. You would probably have to tap the barrel too.
Actually its been done successfully in the past... though i dont think i would trust myself to do it.
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Old 12-09-2012, 01:10 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Just for reference, you can drill and tap the body. It's not particularly difficult since the stainless is thin. You then need to use a steel screw and fit it very short (about two threads worth). It's weak relative to the rest of a mag, but not bad if you don't beat on the feed too much.

A hole forward of the feed port is easier to drill and tap, but you really have to be careful of the interference with the barrel. A hole behind the feed port has to consider the body bushing, but the bolt spring doesn't fit so tight like the barrel.
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Old 12-09-2012, 04:54 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Talk to cougar20th as he puts phantom feeds on stainless bodies.
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Old 12-09-2012, 05:32 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Which method did cougar20th use to attach them?

Either way, the project is on hold for a week or two while we move. I did get an adhesive/bonding compound however, since it seems like the simplest and less risky way to do it.
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:09 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I cant remember exactly how he has it on there but its clean. If I were wanting a s/c or rnc mag, I would go that way.
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:55 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I cant remember exactly how he has it on there but its clean. If I were wanting a s/c or rnc mag, I would go that way.
Years ago, he welded a nut to the body to reinforce the hole.
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Old 12-13-2012, 12:09 AM   #20 (permalink)
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If you do go with JB Weld (saw you bought some form of compound) you have hours to get it right before you are too late. You want the slowest drying compound you can find as the slower it dries, typically the harder it sets.

I put a layer of it in between rifle stocks and the metal receiver/barrel to make the stock fit like a glove and flex less. While I do use a release agent (kiwi shoe polish, nothing will stick to it) on the metal to allow the barrel/receiver to come out, after 8-12 hours the jb weld has set up but is easily cut with a razor blade. If you needed to adjust you still have time to undo and remove everything. Keep a bottle of solvent on hand as well. Acetone/mineral spirits/etc all dissolve the compound so if you have any excess, mineral spirits on a lot of Q tips makes for accurate clean up work without interfering with the compound you want to stay.

If you want it to be something that will never, under any circumstances, come off, you need mechanical lock. With wood rifle stock you drill angled holes part way through (but not fully). When the compound fills these holes it creates a lock. with just a flat surface of compound, the right impact can crack the bond and cause the compound to let loose. If you have these angled cavities, now the same impact is absorbed into the compound rather than against it. If you put the angles opposite of each other you lock the compound.

So keys are:

Take your time, you have plenty of it

Cover everything you don't want compound to stick to with Kiwi shoe polish (use clear, the colored kinds can stain).

Be a little heavy with the compound as the Qtips will clean up any excess well

Have a FULL box of Q tips, use them once only and toss them away. You don't use the same TP to wipe twice, don't use the same Q tip

Use a solvent to clean up anything (while the compound is still wet) that spilled.

After 8-12 hours check on consistency and trim with a sharp razor blade. After 24 hours you can use a sanding disk on a dremel as well, but I've found the cleanest looking edges come with a steady hand and sharp thin knife.

Good luck and post some pics when it's all done.
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