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Old 03-25-2013, 08:28 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanbrandon123 View Post
Yes the gap is about the size of a credit card when aired up .
Then you shouldn't have to adjust the rod length.
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If it needed a different bolt, CCM would have made a different bolt.
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:45 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Ok so I finally got the rod adjusted and it now sits right on the trigger . It fires ok but I am still getting that short stroking effect . Arrg!!! Now its starting to sound like a on/off issue? I am using a venturi bolt and someone said that also be my problem. Can some one chime in and help me again thanks

current set up
68. AGD Auto Mag Classic
AGD Intelliframe with Houge grips and double trigger
AGD ULE body with Angel detent
AGD Lvl 7 stock bolt
14" Deadly Winds Fibur cf barrel
CCM Feed neck
Gas thru grip with macro line
Univerlsal AsA
Dye Trottle 68/4500 Ninja reg @ 1100psi
Viewlaoder Revolution with Exalt speed feed

Last edited by ryanbrandon123; 03-26-2013 at 01:05 AM.
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Old 03-26-2013, 12:55 AM   #13 (permalink)
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With mags, when in doubt, don't.

You should never have to adjust the sear rod and, based on what you've said here, you should never have adjusted your sear rod in the first place.

So you have compounded the original problem by the addition of an improper adjustment. Now there are two things to fix.

First, go back and return the sear rod to its original position. You should have the aforementioned credit card thickness between rod and trigger. If you absolutely cannot resist adjusting the rod, adjust it in, not out. You can get by with more gap behind the trigger (within reason), but not less. Gap is necessary (just not too much). This is one of the things that helps prevent mechanical short-stroking (as opposed to operator error short stroking).

The fact that you were having problems before tells us that the problem is elsewhere, possibly in the on/off, or perhaps even in some slight dimensional differences between frames.

But it most certainly isn't in the sear rod.

You also might want to consider throwing that bolt in the trash and getting a proper AGD bolt. Almost nothing aftermarket is going to work better than stock AGD, and most aftermarket will be far inferior.
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Old 03-26-2013, 01:13 AM   #14 (permalink)
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lol well thanks for the help Menace, i did set the rod back and also put a stock lvl 7 bolt back in the gun. it did seem to shoot better with the stock bolt i ran out of air before i could get some paint through it. i am about to get a Lvl 10 anti chop bolt also. but i think i should get a RT on/off also???
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Old 03-26-2013, 01:24 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Glad to be of some help.

Definitely get some air and test slowly, so you can be sure of finding the bug.

L10 is a fine bolt, though the L7 served a lot of pro players in good stead for a lot of years. I use both, and have no complaints about either.

As for the RT on/off, I like it, but if you aren't used to it, some have reported a tendency to short-stroke owing to the softer trigger pull (it cuts the stock pull in half).

But in any case, I'd say go one piece at a time in any troubleshooting (or tinkering/upgrading) venture. It will be more satisfying and more informative with respect to knowing what changes are producing what effects.

All the best to you, and keep us posted on your progress.
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