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Old 11-29-2007, 12:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
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mag buildup

Hey guys. My cocker buildup is in the works, and I'm planning a semi pgp buildup right now as well. A mag is my next project. I need some help though, as I'm mag ignorant. I've been researching parts and everything, but I'm not sure the different types of valving and regulation that goes into making this gun. So here's what I'm asking.

1- I'm going to build it from parts, so what are all the parts I need to buy? I think it's valve, reg, bolt, body, frame, and then what else?

2- What would your suggestions be for all of those parts? I'm especially confused about the valve. I'm going to try to find a micromag body (Unless people convince me otherwise) and a pneumag frame. Any thoughts?

Also, with all these buildups that I'm doing, I'll be sure to photo and doc the process and post it all on here. Thanks again.
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Old 11-29-2007, 01:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Thinking about either buying a mag (support your local AGD!) or building one, with the intent of pneumagging it myself.

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Originally Posted by stircrazzzy View Post
1- I'm going to build it from parts, so what are all the parts I need to buy? I think it's valve, reg, bolt, body, frame, and then what else?
I think you need at a minimum: Body, Rail, Frame, Valve (reg is integral to the valve), Bolt, ASA of some sort, Misc small parts and hoses. Depending on personal preference and how you run your air, you may want a foregrip of some sort as well.

You should be able to buy most of the parts from AGD, although there are several other sites out there with new stuff (tunamart, themagsmith, etc). From what I've seen, the X-valve and Level 10 bolt seem to be pretty popular and top of the line, although it looks like some people still recommend the level 7 as sufficient. If you're pneumagging you're probably looking for a high ROF so you probably want the best valve you can get, and the anti-chop feature of the level 10 bolt since you won't have eyes. Check on automags.org/forums for pre-made pneu-frames. I think there was a company (Zforce?) selling premade ones, and I think there are several private sellers also working them. Rainman here on MCB was doing pneumag work at one point but I'm not sure if he still is (can't hurt to ask).
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Old 11-29-2007, 01:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks a lot, I appreciate it. I've always wanted one of the original RT mags, but I don't think the RT trigger could touch a pneumag.
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Old 11-29-2007, 02:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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you can Pneumag an RT without problem. So if you buy a second trigger frame you can have both I have a pneumatic frame thats been done. I liked it but I've decided to upgrade it farther to a Electo pneumatic frame (maggo = mag+ego frame)
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Old 11-29-2007, 02:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If you want a punemag, a standard A.I.R. valve is sufficent as the recharge is faster than what your able to rock the trigger.

Major Mag parts

1. A.I.R.-R/T or X Valve
a.regulator body with power tube
b.on/off assembly
c.Bolt
2. body (the main body tube)
3. Rail (mates the trigger frame to the body)
4. Trigger frame
*5. twist lock pin for rail (hopefully the rail already has one)
6. sear assembly and sear pin
8. Bolt spring
9. Banjo Valve bolt and front screw to hold the trigger frame on.
10. misc air routing hoses and asa's depending on choice.

* this is only if you have a traditional mag with twistlock barrels, if you get a ule body with cocker threads ignore this item.

for good measure a oring kit and space kit unless you have a level 10 bolt in that case the lvl10 should have all the spacers you need.


You will probably not find a premade pune frame that is by itself you'll either have to build it, pay an airsmith that makes them, or buy a complete gun.

If you like building up guns. I suggest finding and buying a beater lvl 7 mag for around $100 get it working and then modify from there.

The great thing about mag barrels is everyone thinks twistlock sucks (it doesn't) so barrels are damn cheap to buy off the ignorant, But I just stick with my classic AA twistlocks as I've never found anything that shoots better.
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Old 11-29-2007, 02:33 PM   #6 (permalink)
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When you get some time you may want to get your Automag knowledge up to speed by watching the Tom Kaye Automag video on how it was developed and how it works and how to service it. It'll open your eyes up a little and show you why you won't need an outboard regulator.
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Old 11-29-2007, 11:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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rather than buying parts,

keep an eye out for ebay deals on complete markers

automag rt - (eBay item 150184550284 end time Nov-24-07 19:00:54 PST)
automag rt
Winning bid: US $128.50
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Old 11-30-2007, 01:54 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Parts will be more expensive than a whole gun if you're starting from scratch. What is your price range? Personally, I'd start with either a used twist lock classic 'Mag if I wanted cheap, or a new ULE 'Mag from Tunaman if I was looking for nicer and had about $300 to spend.
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Old 11-30-2007, 06:14 AM   #9 (permalink)
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If I could keep costs down, I'd like to, but I'm such a gear-whore that sometimes I don't let a little thing like cost stand in my way. I'm going to keep my eyes open on ebay for a few days and take it from there.
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Old 11-30-2007, 08:23 AM   #10 (permalink)
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BIG QUESTION - Are you Planning on using CO2 or HPA?

- If CO2 look for a Level 7 [or lower but I like the level 7]
- If HPA any valve can work

Personally I wish I had never "upgraded" to the X-Valve. I never had a problem with my Level 7 with the AGD Foamless Bolt, but I got the itch to "upgrade" and I've never been less happy with my X-Valve Ule setup. Sure it has great recharge rates and rearly breaks paint but it is definitely more fickle and I hate Foamies! I can not seem to keep them on the end of my bolt for a whole scenario and I do not shoot a lot. A foamy bolt without the foamy is great paint blender.
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