2 Questions about Powertube shaft and ULT...

bacci paintball · 12-08-2007, 01:28 PM

I was wondering if anyone could help me out with a few problems I have been having.

My first question is related to classic valves. One of my valves is leaking where the front stainless powertube shaft screws into the valve. I don't mean the powertube tip but the actual powertube shaft. I believe they are screwed together in and they must be locktited into place but I am not sure and would like any tips before I start heating it up and trying to pull it apart.

Second question relates to a ULT in an X valve. Does the ULT need a higher pressure to fire than the standard on/off?

Thanks for any help or tips!
-Dan

secretweaponevan · 12-08-2007, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bacci paintball

I was wondering if anyone could help me out with a few problems I have been having.

My first question is related to classic valves. One of my valves is leaking where the front stainless powertube shaft screws into the valve. I don't mean the powertube tip but the actual powertube shaft. I believe they are screwed together in and they must be locktited into place but I am not sure and would like any tips before I start heating it up and trying to pull it apart.

Second question relates to a ULT in an X valve. Does the ULT need a higher pressure to fire than the standard on/off?

Thanks for any help or tips!
-Dan

Aye, you seem to have a pre-level 7 mag valve. You will need to remove the snap ring (c-clip) beneath the bumper and replace the o-ring located there.

The ULT does not come stock in an X Valve. It is an accessory upgrade to the stock on/off assembly that reduces the RT effect of RT valves (X, Emag, RT, RT Pro). It does not require higher pressure to fire. Any of the RT on/off assemblies will increase their reactivity with how high of an input pressure you feed into the gun.

bacci paintball · 12-10-2007, 02:00 AM

Thanks for the reply Secret Weapon.
The valve is actually a level 7 valve but it is older, I think around 5 or 6K. I imagine it screws in but I am not sure since I have only had one mag valve apart at that spot and it was a retro valve not a classic. Any tips?

As for the ULT, I found out my main problem was that I didn't have enough shims but it is still leaking. I had 2 in before and the ULT pin wasn't long enough but it seems to shoot great now but it still has a small hiss coming though the ULT on/off. I have replace both the top and side orings but it doesn't seem to have any effect.

Right now I have 2 lvl 10 shims (.010(?))and 2 or 3 ULT shims (.005(?)) which is the standard # of 6 as I have read on AO.
I have not tried to replace the small black seal that is inside the ULT and I am hoping I shouldn't have to.

My setup is a IT body, X valve with lvl 10, milled rt rail with rt sear, Logic UMF, and Armageddon tank out putting 800 psi (I think, but it could be 850-900 (don't think it makes a difference)).

Once again and any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again MCB'ers!
-Dan

secretweaponevan · 12-10-2007, 03:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bacci paintball

Thanks for the reply Secret Weapon.
The valve is actually a level 7 valve but it is older, I think around 5 or 6K. I imagine it screws in but I am not sure since I have only had one mag valve apart at that spot and it was a retro valve not a classic. Any tips?

As for the ULT, I found out my main problem was that I didn't have enough shims but it is still leaking. I had 2 in before and the ULT pin wasn't long enough but it seems to shoot great now but it still has a small hiss coming though the ULT on/off. I have replace both the top and side orings but it doesn't seem to have any effect.

Right now I have 2 lvl 10 shims (.010(?))and 2 or 3 ULT shims (.005(?)) which is the standard # of 6 as I have read on AO.
I have not tried to replace the small black seal that is inside the ULT and I am hoping I shouldn't have to.

My setup is a IT body, X valve with lvl 10, milled rt rail with rt sear, Logic UMF, and Armageddon tank out putting 800 psi (I think, but it could be 850-900 (don't think it makes a difference)).

Once again and any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again MCB'ers!
-Dan

If the ULT leaks while the trigger is not pulled, it is micro o-ring or one of the outer o-rings (unless of course the leak is coming from down the barrel, then it is probably the lvl 10 carrier o/ring).
If the ULT leaks while the trigger is pulled, it is the top o-ring.

Get the leaks to stop (liberally lube) before you try additional troubleshooting.

BTW, how do you like the ULT's pull?

bacci paintball · 12-15-2007, 04:04 PM

Thanks again for the reply Secretweaponevan!
By adding lots of oil I was able to temporarily stop the leak. But it did start again and it does leak when the trigger isn't pulled back so I am assuming it is the micro oring.
I looked on the AGD site to find a replacement but I didn't see it, only the complete ult kit.
Any idea on a source for them?
-Dan

going_home · 12-15-2007, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bacci paintball

Thanks again for the reply Secretweaponevan!
By adding lots of oil I was able to temporarily stop the leak. But it did start again and it does leak when the trigger isn't pulled back so I am assuming it is the micro oring.
I looked on the AGD site to find a replacement but I didn't see it, only the complete ult kit.
Any idea on a source for them?
-Dan

Check your PM's.
You have one on the way now.

bacci paintball · 01-12-2008, 02:22 AM

Big thanks to you guys! I got ULT in my x valve working great great and it has been taking a lot of playing time away from my blazer and my super stocker.

I still have a few finishing touches to make. Needs matching detents, and probably a clamping feedneck.
The body is an IT (I think that is the name) and the rail is an rt pro rail milled by rainman (which is great by the way,thanks a ton Claudio!) and the frame is an UMF which I picked up from Mat.

Here are some pics:

Thanks again secret weapon and Going Home!
-Dan

secretweaponevan · 01-12-2008, 02:26 AM

No sweat, that is the best looking mag with an IT body I've seen.

Gratz, and good setup.

BigEvil · 01-15-2008, 11:49 AM

Did you ever get the power tube leak fixed? Those older ones are just locktited on. The newer ones are welded. I do not recall with 100% certainty if there is an oring in there or not, but there probably is.

If your troubles continue, contact Tunaman. He has all of that stuff.

bacci paintball · 01-15-2008, 12:16 PM

I never did get the Classic valve fixed. I think the serial on it is in the 6K range and from the looks of it I was think it was loctited but I wanted to get a second opinion before I messed with it. Also, if it was welded I don't think it would have developed this leak in the first place.

What color loctite is it and how should I go about breaking the loctite seal? Will heat do it?
Thanks again for any help,
-Dan

12-08-2007, 01:28 PM	#1 (permalink)
bacci paintball MCB Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Nor Cal	2 Questions about Powertube shaft and ULT... I was wondering if anyone could help me out with a few problems I have been having. My first question is related to classic valves. One of my valves is leaking where the front stainless powertube shaft screws into the valve. I don't mean the powertube tip but the actual powertube shaft. I believe they are screwed together in and they must be locktited into place but I am not sure and would like any tips before I start heating it up and trying to pull it apart. Second question relates to a ULT in an X valve. Does the ULT need a higher pressure to fire than the standard on/off? Thanks for any help or tips! -Dan

01-15-2008, 11:49 AM	#9 (permalink)
BigEvil Benevolent Dictator Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: www.BigEvilOnline.com	Did you ever get the power tube leak fixed? Those older ones are just locktited on. The newer ones are welded. I do not recall with 100% certainty if there is an oring in there or not, but there probably is. If your troubles continue, contact Tunaman. He has all of that stuff. __________________ www.BigEvilOnline.com <-- Great PB Forum full of Paintball Playing ZEALOTS!! BigEvil's MCB Feedback I NO LONGER WTB: ATS Mags - I realize that I am cool enough already without them!!

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12-10-2007, 02:00 AM	#3 (permalink)
bacci paintball MCB Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Nor Cal	Thanks for the reply Secret Weapon. The valve is actually a level 7 valve but it is older, I think around 5 or 6K. I imagine it screws in but I am not sure since I have only had one mag valve apart at that spot and it was a retro valve not a classic. Any tips? As for the ULT, I found out my main problem was that I didn't have enough shims but it is still leaking. I had 2 in before and the ULT pin wasn't long enough but it seems to shoot great now but it still has a small hiss coming though the ULT on/off. I have replace both the top and side orings but it doesn't seem to have any effect. Right now I have 2 lvl 10 shims (.010(?))and 2 or 3 ULT shims (.005(?)) which is the standard # of 6 as I have read on AO. I have not tried to replace the small black seal that is inside the ULT and I am hoping I shouldn't have to. My setup is a IT body, X valve with lvl 10, milled rt rail with rt sear, Logic UMF, and Armageddon tank out putting 800 psi (I think, but it could be 850-900 (don't think it makes a difference)). Once again and any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks again MCB'ers! -Dan

12-15-2007, 04:04 PM	#5 (permalink)
bacci paintball MCB Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Nor Cal	Thanks again for the reply Secretweaponevan! By adding lots of oil I was able to temporarily stop the leak. But it did start again and it does leak when the trigger isn't pulled back so I am assuming it is the micro oring. I looked on the AGD site to find a replacement but I didn't see it, only the complete ult kit. Any idea on a source for them? -Dan

01-12-2008, 02:22 AM	#7 (permalink)
bacci paintball MCB Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Nor Cal	Big thanks to you guys! I got ULT in my x valve working great great and it has been taking a lot of playing time away from my blazer and my super stocker. I still have a few finishing touches to make. Needs matching detents, and probably a clamping feedneck. The body is an IT (I think that is the name) and the rail is an rt pro rail milled by rainman (which is great by the way,thanks a ton Claudio!) and the frame is an UMF which I picked up from Mat. Here are some pics: Thanks again secret weapon and Going Home! -Dan

01-15-2008, 12:16 PM	#10 (permalink)
bacci paintball MCB Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Nor Cal	I never did get the Classic valve fixed. I think the serial on it is in the 6K range and from the looks of it I was think it was loctited but I wanted to get a second opinion before I messed with it. Also, if it was welded I don't think it would have developed this leak in the first place. What color loctite is it and how should I go about breaking the loctite seal? Will heat do it? Thanks again for any help, -Dan