Paintball

[Doccarl]

I recently picked up an autoresponse frame off ebay, and I have a few questions.

The frame I have has a new spring installed in it, which is slightly thicker than the stock spring. The frame fires fine, but the spring is so strong, its resulting than heavier trigger pull than the old spring- - - at least according to my memory: I've only handled one other autoresponse other than this one, and that was several years ago. I picked up some extension springs from lowe's this evening, and after a couple cuts and re-bends I was able to get another spring in the frame. When firing with this new spring, the trigger will stick in the rear position. In fact, it sticks so bad that the only way I have been able to reset it is by pushing down on the autoresponse lever attached to the sear. Is this normal with a spring that is too weak? Does anyone know a source for a suitable replacement spring that will give the lightest pull possible while still resetting the trigger?

Additionally, I've noticed that the trigger has a respectable amount of side to side play in it, particularly noticeable when there is reduced spring tension involved. Is this 'normal'? Could this slop be contributing to the 'sticking' with the lighter spring? Has anyone successfully shimmed the sides of the trigger?


Finally, Is anyone aware of any resource for these frames (equivalent to an owner's manual)? I'd like to be able to get this thing humming like I know its able to.


Thanks to all for your time,


Carl

[pump]

well maybe the T part is backwards?

i tried to fiddle around with my AR frame with lighter springs...but its dependent on your on off valve and bolt forces.....if you can lighten those 2 up a lighter spring might be usable

[pump]

check this out.....glad Archive.org has all the pics still
http://web.archive.org/web/200104172...m/faq_mag.html

[paintslinger16]

I used one of these trigger for years...and mine started doing the sticking part after all that use, it just seemed to wear out and start sticking. The side to side play was always there.
The frame came with a video manual not a book.

[pump]

were you able to get it to stop sticking?

[Doccarl]

Thanks for the responses. The link posted was pretty informative-- I haven't seen that article in years and had forgotten all about it. Honestly I haven't had much time this week to play around with the frame, but I did put the " original" (ie; the spring that the previous user had installed) back in, so everything is working at this point. As far as the T-piece being backwards, i dont believe thats the case because the gun fires fine with the stiffer spring.

What I'm thinking is this: that a weaker spring or an original spring that had worn out over time may allow the sear assembly to travel too far, allowing it to become wedged in the frame.

One thing that I may try---
I have an extra rt on/off assembly, I'm going to replace the stock classic on/off with that. My only concern is that the rt assembly may have issues with CO2. I COULD run air through it, but hat would defeat the purpose of this old school, co2, ss body remote line woodsball project gun I'm doing here.

Carl

[paintslinger16]

Never got it to stop, I sold it as is. I also had the small aluminum t block that fit inside the frame and made it shoot it single action. It stuck either DA or SA

[pump]

Originally Posted by Doccarl

Thanks for the responses. The link posted was pretty informative-- I haven't seen that article in years and had forgotten all about it. Honestly I haven't had much time this week to play around with the frame, but I did put the " original" (ie; the spring that the previous user had installed) back in, so everything is working at this point. As far as the T-piece being backwards, i dont believe thats the case because the gun fires fine with the stiffer spring.

What I'm thinking is this: that a weaker spring or an original spring that had worn out over time may allow the sear assembly to travel too far, allowing it to become wedged in the frame.

One thing that I may try---
I have an extra rt on/off assembly, I'm going to replace the stock classic on/off with that. My only concern is that the rt assembly may have issues with CO2. I COULD run air through it, but hat would defeat the purpose of this old school, co2, ss body remote line woodsball project gun I'm doing here.

Carl

yeah i think that if its too weak the spring wont pull the sear enough, also the lighter on offs might work with a lighter spring

i would like to try one with a ULT and LVL X bolt.....might be nice

i wish i didnt trade my AR frame for a 45 single trig frame(which was fubar from a bad trader)