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Old 03-25-2008, 01:35 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The lowers? Grab a set used on the trading forums here, PBN, Automags Online, eBay, wherever. They're not hard to find, ususally run you about $300.
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Help close unsafe fields full of agglets and control the stray cat population by selling me ATS mags!
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Old 03-25-2008, 01:36 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VVulfe View Post
Please forgive me for another moment of noobish-ness...

What comprises a set of E-mag lowers?
Literally that; its a frame with a big 'noid, a battery pack, a board, and a battery. They run about $300-$350 used. They work mechanically or electronically via a selector switch. Emag lowers work best with an R/T Pro valve, Emag valve, or X-valve because they recharge the fastest.

You can use a Tac rail, R/T Pro rail, Emag rail, or any other "new rail". You can use any ULE, Tac, or Emag body easily too. With a little modification, you can use an Automag/Minimag rail, and an Automag/Minimag body, but it takes some work.

To be honest, shelling out the $950 for a custom Emag at Tunamart.com will be cheaper and easier in the long run than building your own; the parts cost a lot, and much of the stuff you need will be used and of questionable reliability.

(used)Emag lowers - $300

ULE body - $130
Tac1 body - $200

X-valve - $250
(used) Emag valve - $125ish
(used) R/T Pro valve - $125ish

Tac Rail - $100
(used)Emag rail - $50ish
(used)R/T Pro rail - $30ish

Misc parts - $100+


Pick one from each group, and that's what your price'd be. The issues are whether all that stuff even works when it arrives, tuning your marker, building it, etc.

Mags can be confusing to people who are new to them.
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Old 03-25-2008, 01:38 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Ah, so it's one piece. I had been under the impression that the Intelliframe somehow factored into an Emag setup.
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Old 03-25-2008, 01:40 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Nope, the Intelli is a mech frame.
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Help close unsafe fields full of agglets and control the stray cat population by selling me ATS mags!
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Old 03-25-2008, 01:40 PM   #15 (permalink)
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So, what makes the Intelliframe "Intelli-"?
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Old 03-25-2008, 01:41 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Nope, the Intelli is a mech frame.
...Although it is commonly used in Pneumags and EP mags, but that's NOT what you want for your first mag. Seriously.
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Old 03-25-2008, 01:48 PM   #17 (permalink)
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It's really light and adjustable, but requires more tuning then a 'Cocker to get right.
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Glory, glory, what a hell of a way to die,
With a rifle in your hands and you're falling through the sky,
Glory, glory, what a hell of a way to die,
He ain't gonna jump no more!

Help close unsafe fields full of agglets and control the stray cat population by selling me ATS mags!
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Old 03-25-2008, 01:52 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Ah, noted!

See, the problem with me asking questions like this is I start to plot. So, on a semi related note...does a warp-feed ready TacOne body need any different parts than a regular CF TacOne body, or is it just a question of mainbodies?
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Old 03-25-2008, 01:54 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Nope, everything that comes with your Warp/Q will be all that's needed. It can't use a regular hopper any more, mind you.
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Glory, glory, what a hell of a way to die,
With a rifle in your hands and you're falling through the sky,
Glory, glory, what a hell of a way to die,
He ain't gonna jump no more!

Help close unsafe fields full of agglets and control the stray cat population by selling me ATS mags!
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Old 03-25-2008, 01:54 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
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...Although it is commonly used in Pneumags and EP mags, but that's NOT what you want for your first mag. Seriously.
I agree about not getting a Pneumag or Electro-pnuemag for the first mag. That's like trying to learn to swim by jumping in the deep end.

But one can also mount an electrical switch inside the frame, and use the switch to work a Warpfeed or Revvy when the trigger is pulled.
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