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Old 02-18-2011, 11:12 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Spyder work - thoughts/quote?

I have decided to tackle my loaner/girlfriend's gun as a project. I don't want to do anything too extreme, I just want to satisfy my current desire to tinker and make the gun easier to use (and possibly perform better).



Instead of proposing solutions only, I will outline some 'issues' I have and maybe someone can lend their opinion.

#1 - People have gotten their fingers pinched by the bolt when they cock the marker (on the field, if the bolt does not re-cock fully) and it slips on them. I really like the JAM bolt, so I would like to convert it to top cocking. Is there any way to mill a slot in the top of the body and use a longer hammer pin so it extends out the top of the body? Maybe even make it be able to slide out so you can remove the bolt?

#2 - I don't like the cotter pin setup it currently has to remove the lower internals. Can a Cocker bolt pin work or be made to work? I am thinking that you might be able to open up both the hole in the body and the groove in the rear cap and use a spring loaded bolt pin.

#3 - Trigger work. Is there any way to make the trigger a bit lighter/snappier? Or is this just playing around with trigger springs and stops?

#4 - With regards to the front block and 'volumizer', is there any benefit to using a larger chamber? The one it has was taken from a VS1 or 2 as it was all I had.

#5 - There recently have been Type-R markers and parts put up for sale (Member's BST). Would using that nice valve be advantageous over the stock valve? Or is there another 'must have' valve for Spyders? I am not neccesarily looking for low pressure. The gun will be regulated using an AA Vigilante (I have springs to make it LP or HP) and I will be using a loop of stainless steel hose after the bottomline ASA. This marker will have to run well on CO2.

http://www.truepaintball.com/images/...e-assembly.jpg

#6 - I need a safety for the Bob Long frame. Can I purchase this somewhere, or can a standard Spyder safety be made to work?
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Old 02-18-2011, 11:21 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idkfa View Post
I have decided to tackle my loaner/girlfriend
...

Are you saying your girlfriend's a loaner?

For the trigger can you add a trigger stop to reduce the length of the pull?

Have you considered converting it to a pump? That would solve the finger jamming issue.
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Old 02-18-2011, 11:28 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I don't know if this is one of your problems or not, but many of the Spyders had slip-fit expension chambers. I had this made to be able to use standard ASA threaded regulators/expansion chambers:



If you're interested in it, I've got another one you can have for the cost of shipping.

(Note: I'm talking about the raw aluminum part, not any of the rest of the bits, ignore them, they are nothing )
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Old 02-18-2011, 11:33 AM   #4 (permalink)
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It was a problem, but I managed to source a new front block a few years ago for it. It is now ASA threaded. Thanks.

With regards to the "nothing", are you making a FASOR or Spimmy?
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Old 02-18-2011, 11:40 AM   #5 (permalink)
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It was for a VS1 bodied spimmy.
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Old 02-18-2011, 01:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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For problem number 1, I just hacked the "cage" off the back. Solved the problem instantly, but of course, it exposed the anodizing.
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Old 02-18-2011, 01:13 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idkfa View Post
#1 - People have gotten their fingers pinched by the bolt when they cock the marker (on the field, if the bolt does not re-cock fully) and it slips on them. I really like the JAM bolt, so I would like to convert it to top cocking. Is there any way to mill a slot in the top of the body and use a longer hammer pin so it extends out the top of the body? Maybe even make it be able to slide out so you can remove the bolt?
That's definitely doable..they also make/made JAMs for Imagine-style half-rear cocking, and full rear cocking guns, you might want to try one of those before you cut any metal. Also, you could just halfback it, Imagines are pretty easy to do that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by idkfa View Post
#2 - I don't like the cotter pin setup it currently has to remove the lower internals. Can a Cocker bolt pin work or be made to work? I am thinking that you might be able to open up both the hole in the body and the groove in the rear cap and use a spring loaded bolt pin.
There are aftermarket pins that work like that available, without having to cut a larger hole. If you do, it make bork the velocity adjuster. They may even have something at your local hardware store that will work.

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#3 - Trigger work. Is there any way to make the trigger a bit lighter/snappier? Or is this just playing around with trigger springs and stops?
Springs and stops is probably easiest. You could always try an eframe, they are relatively cheap. Eventually your trigger has to overcome the friction between the sear and the hammer, so it's going to be a little heavy by design. You could rig up a pneu system ala pneumag as well, if you want to get fancy...but then you need an LPR, more hoses, etc.

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#4 - With regards to the front block and 'volumizer', is there any benefit to using a larger chamber? The one it has was taken from a VS1 or 2 as it was all I had.
Not really any advantage if you're regulating; on raw CO2 the older Spyders were dumping right from tank into the valve so it gave you some expansion space to avoid accidental liquid dump into the valve. On HPA or well regulated CO2 it's pretty pointless.

Quote:
Originally Posted by idkfa View Post
#5 - There recently have been Type-R markers and parts put up for sale (Member's BST). Would using that nice valve be advantageous over the stock valve? Or is there another 'must have' valve for Spyders? I am not neccesarily looking for low pressure. The gun will be regulated using an AA Vigilante (I have springs to make it LP or HP) and I will be using a loop of stainless steel hose after the bottomline ASA. This marker will have to run well on CO2.
If you're running CO2, I would not bother trying to go LP. There are a lot of things that need to be tweaked to make LP really work well, and in my experience it's not worth the hassle. There are a ton of aftermarket valves available, my preferred was the Madmans because they were about $3 on ebay for a while.

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#6 - I need a safety for the Bob Long frame. Can I purchase this somewhere, or can a standard Spyder safety be made to work?

Not sure on this one.
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Old 02-18-2011, 01:20 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks.

It is actually a Victor II body, but that makes little difference I believe.

I would rather not half-back it, I like the look of the cage. I need some way for them to cock the gun without having to put their hands around the bolt. When you say "rear cocking", do you mean directly out the back of the cage? As in, not top, not side, not grasping the bolt itself like on the Spyder, but similar to the older Spyders?

I will take a look for aftermarket pins. That would be much better/easier, I just never knew they existed.

I am going to stay away electronics for the time being, I do love the feel of a mech gun and a single trigger.
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Old 02-18-2011, 01:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
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i've got a retaining pin from a Silver bullet, its just a smidge too big for the pin hole on an Imagine. maybe need to remove 1/32 of an inch to make it work. This is the plunger and ball bearing type retaining pin, like cockers.

Critical, if nobody else wants that part, I can use it on the spyder fleet i'm building!
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Old 02-18-2011, 01:53 PM   #10 (permalink)
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If your interested I have a LNIB Imaging Anti CHop Bolt, it has a cocking knob that can stick out of either side of the cage, allowing you to cock it much easier... I bought it, compressed it for a week to break it in, and a week later I got a supa fly bolt, and it's sat in ym tool box since.. I'll send it to ya for like cost of shipping if you want.. pm me if your interested.
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