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Old 01-15-2014, 01:24 AM   #551 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Steadian View Post
That's pretty awesome, any ideas on a first project?

Also I just purchased a couple of halfblock kits (jcurts kits but not sold by him) and was wondering if anyone has a drawing or print on milling a body to take them? Hopefully ill get some time on the mill in the next couple of weeks and have some fun
The kits on eBay are jcurts. They are coming from the same city. He's just got someone else selling them or created a new name.
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Old 01-15-2014, 02:50 AM   #552 (permalink)
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You should exercise your geometry skills and derive the necessary milling specs from the kits themselves... It's not difficult at all. I did my first halfblock about 8 years ago using one of his kits, figured it out myself and it worked perfectly. Good machinist practice to figure out
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Old 01-15-2014, 03:26 AM   #553 (permalink)
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I bought them through maggot on here actually, and my main concern was slotting the hammer properly but deriving it myself was what I am starting to lean towards actually
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Old 01-15-2014, 09:04 AM   #554 (permalink)
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If you are looking for a drawing, I believe jcurt's kits follow JCM halfblock specs. A (rather low-quality) copy of the drawing is posted below.
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Old 01-15-2014, 09:55 AM   #555 (permalink)
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If you are looking for a drawing, I believe jcurt's kits follow JCM halfblock specs. A (rather low-quality) copy of the drawing is posted below.
http://i968.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps1a84b01f.jpg
That's the one I was thinking of.
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Old 01-15-2014, 12:19 PM   #556 (permalink)
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I'll still second check by manually measuring when I recieve the kits but thanks for the help guys!
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Old 01-15-2014, 04:41 PM   #557 (permalink)
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that 3.200 dimension should be taken with a grain of salt... check how far the bolt extends past the sled and figure out how much you want the bolt to "close" in the breech, make the dimension based on that. Remembering of course that using the 1.250 stated dimension for slot overall length means that action/bolt travel is 1.0 inches, you can actually squeeze more than one inch of travel in with the right configuration and I recommend going longer (if you can get like 1.125" that is awesome).

also, make the slot .260 wide to make sure no rubbing of the bolt pin on either side. and if the sled doesnt fit the body profile just right, best to modify the sled profile.

the hammer slot is easily derived after all that, it should be done last. make sure you don't forget to account for the hammer at its full travel (valve open) so it doesn't smack the bolt pin and stop before opening the valve properly. I would recommend even a little extra allowance in that regard, so the action has room to kick back a bit for better acoustic profile, and basically to maximize that cocking travel to the 1.125" or so mark (since the hammer can actually prevent the bolt from coming back all the way if the slot is too short).

Last edited by ApoC_101; 01-15-2014 at 04:47 PM.
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Old 01-15-2014, 07:05 PM   #558 (permalink)
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Totally agree on the bolt length issue. I was going to mention that I cut-in the 3.200 dimension to something more like 3.192 for my desired bolt protrusion, but it slipped my mind.
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Old 01-15-2014, 07:22 PM   #559 (permalink)
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How much would you guys recommend for the bolt to protrude? something like 5 to 10 thou or is that to much or not enough? and for the slot just make it so the pin stops the sled at the desired rear position right? thanks for all of the help again I cant wait to get these in
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Old 01-15-2014, 09:05 PM   #560 (permalink)
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I go with as much bolt closure as possible as long as it can still be opened all the way with the available action travel... Better closure improves efficiency. If you can close the bolt almost all the way to the barrel that is awesome.
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