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Old 07-02-2012, 02:32 AM   #51 (permalink)
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lol I felt like a caveman today working on the manual lathe rethreading a phantom barrel for a sterling. This is no longer true.......
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Old 07-03-2012, 05:05 AM   #52 (permalink)
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I use Autocad to do my drawings then use a nice easy cheap program Cut2D from vectric
under $150, you import the drawing DXF, DWG,eps,ai or pdf then pick your line enter depth of cut, how many passes etc. Then converts to g-code, has nearly 100 post processors and away you go, even has tool libary now
heres the link to the website
Cut 2D - Overview | 2D Hobby CNC Machining | Contour machining | Text Engraving
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Old 07-07-2012, 10:24 AM   #53 (permalink)
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NexGenCAM - YouTube

They have a bunch of good videos on getting started with HSMexpress and HSMworks (the not so free version). Very easy to follow.
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Old 07-07-2012, 08:13 PM   #54 (permalink)
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The best part is... They keep adding new content! Their videos are very easy to understand, and went a long way toward explaining HSMExpress/works to me.

Ty
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Old 07-20-2012, 07:17 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Alrighty, I'm going to noob it up in here.

I want to put ER16 collets on my Sakai ML-210 lathe.

Is there any reason I can't get away with doing this besides a loss of rigidity and work space?
The lathe has an mt1 spindle, can I just mount an mt1 er16 collet chuck with drawbar from the rear?

I wouldn't mind making this mounting adapter at some point, but the above method is much more expedient.
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Old 07-20-2012, 07:46 PM   #56 (permalink)
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I use an MT3 mounted ER40 collet chuck in my 9x20 lathe and I love it. Just made a bushing/spacer and a drawbar out of a piece of allthread to feed through the headstock to hold it in. The bushing is a relatively close fit to the drawbar to keep it from being too eccentric and to give the double nut arrangement on the end something to draw against.

I made a custom chuck that threaded on to the spindle that took the collets that worked great too and allowed work to pass through, but I've since turned that into a mounting system to hold round items on my mill.
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Old 07-20-2012, 09:15 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Ah, right...duh! Of course the big difference between the two would be whether or not you can pass work through the spindle.

Thanks y0da!
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Old 07-20-2012, 11:02 PM   #58 (permalink)
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That, and a morse taper variant sucks up a little more of your bed length.

If you can find one in MT1 taper, I would recommend ER32 or ER40 over ER16 just due to the larger range of sizes. ER16 stops below 11/16", which means it can't hold a bolt for a paintball gun. ER32 and 40 both exceed that capacity wise, making them a better fit for what you probably want to do with it.
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Old 07-21-2012, 12:27 AM   #59 (permalink)
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I'm definitely not seeing a whole lot of options for MT1 in ER32 and 40 through Googling. I figure for my purposes, I can use the collets for small work and anything larger I can go to the 3-jaw.
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Old 07-21-2012, 02:30 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Another option could be holding a straight shank ER collet chuck in the three jaw chuck. Keep run out in mind but I know several people that use the 5C Kalamazoo chucks in a similar fashion (except for lathe size).

Straight Shank Tool Holders ER11, ER16, ER20, ER25, ER32, ER40 - MariTool
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