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Old 09-30-2012, 09:06 PM   #11 (permalink)
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OK.. Im getting the idea here. Major velocity swings = you messing w/ your input pressures w/o a basic understanding of what that does on a sniper / cocker.

on a sniper/cocker:
If you start at zero pressure and increase it slightly the velocity goes up.
As you continue to increase pressure you will continue to increase the velocity to a point.
Beyond that point increasing pressure puts too much pressure behind the valve and the hammer can't open it very well and the velocity starts to go down.
Adding additional input pressure then lowers the velocity until the valve wont open at all and the ball just rolls out the end.

note: Leaky regulator seats will do this as well all by themselves.

IMO: A sniper build starts with a well broken-in 0-700 psi PPS Stabilizer. And build the gun around that. I have several snipers I haven't needed adjust at all in several years. no need.

Look up "sweet spotting" for more info.

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Originally Posted by tymcneer View Post
Thumper, whereabouts do you live? There are a number of people spread out all over the place that will help in person... But ofering help from Baltimore MD, if you live in CA, is pretty useless to you.
Ty
^ I think OP can handle this... just needs some guidance. I live in SC btw.
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Last edited by thumper; 09-30-2012 at 09:12 PM.
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Old 09-30-2012, 10:48 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I'm guessing you're trying to run high pressure into a post-2k valve. You need to get pressure down to 300-400 PSI or so then go from there. Swapping 2k style internals for 2k style internals won't change anything.
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Old 09-30-2012, 10:58 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Old 10-01-2012, 09:48 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaD View Post
.. Swapping 2k style internals for 2k style internals won't change anything.
... Ill argue that lots of the newer after market hammers are really long and the newer after market springs are really light and if dropped into a pre-2k body can create some pretty erratic performance. (farting, valve issues).. especially if the builder doesnt get the jam nut back in place correctly, tears a valve oring, gets teflon tape (or blue loctite) in/on the valve body/stem etc.

assuming we are starting with a pre-2k body:

pre-2k body + stock valve & hammer + blue main spring + blue valve spring + 375 psi input will work almost every time. (this is pretty close to the factory 97-99 wgp setup). Lots of counter clerks might try to sell you a fancy-smancy long / heavy hammer and light springs but IMO this is just wasting money. There is nothing wrong with stock internals. (but I do prefer the longer maddmann blue springs over stock wgp springs). And 90% of the counter clerks these days don't have a clue about tuning cockers - especially pre-2k cockers - they just want to sell parts.
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Old 10-01-2012, 05:00 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:57 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Err... I dunno what I have.. Any suggestions on where to buy these parts? I'm not savvy on that end
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Old 10-01-2012, 09:34 PM   #17 (permalink)
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OrangeBolas - I've been fighting the same problem on my post2k Sniper. My issue turned out to be a really crappy regulator. Above 400ish psi, the gun will not function because the hammer can't pop the valve open against all that pressure. When your pressure gets too low, there just isn't enough energy to push the ball to 300fps. At 200-300 psi range, my sniper works great! My gun has a direct reading gauge at the vertical ASA, if you don't have one... get one - at least until you get the gun working right. If you have a bad regulator (or no regulator) get a Palmer Stabilizer - I've been running one for YEARS on my Desert Fox mech semi with ZERO problems and excellent consistency. You can get them from Palmer's Pursuit Shop (just google it). Yes they cost more, yes they're worth it. Another option is to go to Bacci paintball, and get pre-2k internals and then you may not need a reg.
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