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Old 01-27-2012, 11:54 PM   #21 (permalink)
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You know that oil to the bolt will attract and stick dirt to it and wear the inner bore of the top tube faster.
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Old 01-28-2012, 11:16 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MorueM View Post
You know that oil to the bolt will attract and stick dirt to it and wear the inner bore of the top tube faster.
Then what... run the bolt DRY??

I think its time to ask the experts. Jared, what do you think?
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Old 01-28-2012, 11:22 PM   #23 (permalink)
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There is nothing wrong with running a delrin or nylatron bolt dry. Delrin is a low wear, low resistance material.
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lube the shaft and warm the o-ring up in your hand by rubbing it back and forth between hands. then it should go on easier.
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Old 01-29-2012, 02:30 AM   #24 (permalink)
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You want to put lube to the orings. There's no orings on the viking bolt. It is made of delrin to not wear the inner top tube as much. You want the bolt to wear before the top tube.
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Old 01-29-2012, 02:40 AM   #25 (permalink)
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just put aka oil on the bolt and it will be fine
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Old 01-29-2012, 07:38 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmycuddler View Post
just put aka oil on the bolt and it will be fine
That's always a good default... Running AKA lube on an aka marker.

Regarding the whole lube on bolt argument, while I understand that Delrin is sort of 'self lubing' for me it's a matter of simple science. Bottom line, it's plastic rubbing against metal. To me, a little couple of drops couldn't hurt keep it running smoothly. The reason I use Tri flow is that it lasts and will not swell the Delrin. I don't use a whole lot and I seem to get stellar results. Also, of you are like me then you would clean the hell out of the bolt during breaks in game play and clearly when there is a break in paint.


Bottom line, you take care of your gear, it takes care of you. Something that cycles roughly 2000 times during a normal game deserves lube IMHO.
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Old 01-29-2012, 07:39 PM   #27 (permalink)
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The only thing you should do to your viking is 2 drops of synthetic oil in the asa and dryfire 20-50 shots (barrel off, or swab your barrel after to remove traces of oil). You can lube the orings on the excal's bolt, but there's no oring on the viking's bolt, no need to oil it.
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:57 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MorueM View Post
The only thing you should do to your viking is 2 drops of synthetic oil in the asa and dryfire 20-50 shots (barrel off, or swab your barrel after to remove traces of oil). You can lube the orings on the excal's bolt, but there's no oring on the viking's bolt, no need to oil it.
Ok gotcha... sounds a little scary but Ill give it a go.
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Old 01-30-2012, 01:19 AM   #29 (permalink)
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I mean, if we were using the guns in a clean controlled environment, sure, oil the bolt as much as you can. But we usually play in dirty gritty places, and that's where the unwanted particles come from that we don't want to stick and grind the breech. I might be wrong, but I'd tend to think that those particles would be easier away if there's no oil to keep them to stick around. And I prefer an used bolt to an used breech.
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Old 03-07-2012, 01:59 AM   #30 (permalink)
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AKA told me to put a drop of oil on my bolt when I got my first Viking. I always did and my bolt didn't wear nearly as fast as others who ran their bolts dry. However, it wasn't like their bolts were destroyed or anything. Mine just looked newer than theirs after the same amount of use.
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