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Old 09-19-2013, 12:49 PM   #11 (permalink)
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yes a 'dialer' is what they are usually referred to.
like the belsales rex dialer or an ans dialer.
AKA makes a plug with holes to set a varying depth to account for different spring tensions.
the only pre2k part you need specifically is the front banjo bolt. i guess you could say the IVG is pre2k but it is a grey area, as they will fit on any cocker. cocker bodies before 98 didnt have threads for an ivg so those dialers were used. aka cocker bodies didnt come with threads either.
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Old 09-19-2013, 12:56 PM   #12 (permalink)
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If you are never going to sell it and don't care what Cocker Snobs (I'm one of them) say, then you buy but a Tap and a Tap Wrench, set it up and tap it for the IVG. I did this with beat up old body. One word of caution, if you do this make sure you run something to dull the resulting threads in the body so they don't dice up the o-rings on the IVG.
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:15 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I'm a toolmaker so Ill probably end up just making one. I'm not hacking up this body because it isn't mine.
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:21 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by anomoly40 View Post
I'm a toolmaker so Ill probably end up just making one. I'm not hacking up this body because it isn't mine.
i have an IVG tap.... i can knock it out if you want to go that route
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:42 PM   #15 (permalink)
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This one is a buddy of mines. I may have some work for you though later on.
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:29 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Ok. I have a Rat valve and the stem seems to stick too far into the hammer tube. What I mean by this is that I can't access the set screw lug thing on the hammer without opening the valve a little. I don't have a valve nut in, just the setscrew that holds the valve from the bottom.

What am I doing wrong?
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:52 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Are you saying you have to press the hammer in a little bit before you can get an allen wrench into the hammer lug or can you not access it at all? I have had that happen before and all I needed to do was depress it a little bit then I could access it.
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Old 09-29-2013, 12:35 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by anomoly40 View Post
Ok. I have a Rat valve and the stem seems to stick too far into the hammer tube. What I mean by this is that I can't access the set screw lug thing on the hammer without opening the valve a little. I don't have a valve nut in, just the setscrew that holds the valve from the bottom.

What am I doing wrong?
That's normal, nothing really wrong. The Rat valve actually has a slightly shorter stem than many other cocker valves. Which doesn't make any sense considering they were trying to make a 'low pressure' valve. I've always hated the Rat valve because the shorter stem means a heavier hammer spring has to be used to hold the valve open longer.

Do you have the detent cover? Or does it even require one? I know some SA VLMs came without covers.

I'd advise against threaded the lower tube if you ever want to have it milled. The threads widen the lower tube, preventing deep milling around the IVG area.

I'd also suggest finding a low pressure chamber instead of a standard 99 frontblock screw. They can really make a difference in mini'd 99 spec low pressure cockers. A member here called Xennocide has a few KAPP LPCs for sale on eBay, I'm sure he'd hook ya up if you PM'd him. I&I sports also sells LPCs for around $9. It would be ideal to find an AKA Mighty Max, but they are way overpriced (if you can even find one) compared to the KAPP/ANS option.

Is the feedneck threaded? You might want to consider having it threaded before anodizing. I know DC does it for around $45 and AKA sells their clamping feednecks for $20.
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