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Old 10-20-2013, 08:14 PM   #11 (permalink)
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molex plugs part number request

Extensive list of markers and their connectors.
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Old 10-20-2013, 10:44 PM   #12 (permalink)
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molex plugs part number request

Extensive list of markers and their connectors.
nothing in there about Pandora boards

Issue is looks like most of those posts are for stock harnesses, not aftermarket boards. good to know though. now I don't need to buy new harnesses for most guns.
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Old 10-21-2013, 02:19 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Sorry, I can not find any in the lab with that style and pitch [this style we us 1.25mm and yours appears to be 2mm] but below is what you need and a link to Mouser where you can order what you need [$0.36 ea]. Make sure you also order the pins and crimp tool if you pins in your current connector look abused. You can extract your pins out of you current connector by using a blade to lift up the tabs over each pin then pulling straight out.



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Old 10-21-2013, 09:33 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Any particular crimp tool you recommend?
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Old 10-21-2013, 11:42 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Grendel View Post
Sorry, I can not find any in the lab with that style and pitch [this style we us 1.25mm and yours appears to be 2mm] but below is what you need and a link to Mouser where you can order what you need [$0.36 ea]. Make sure you also order the pins and crimp tool if you pins in your current connector look abused. You can extract your pins out of you current connector by using a blade to lift up the tabs over each pin then pulling straight out.

http://www.mouser.com/images/molex/lrg/51090a.jpg

Molex 51090-0600 (Mouser)
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Any particular crimp tool you recommend?
Yes I'd also like to know. I don't think the pins are too bad looking but I figure why not order new pins and crimp tool if i'm already ordering something.
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:41 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Mouser Link to correct pins

Mouser Link to correct tool

While it is best to use the correct tool, if you do not have access or do not want to pay for one [they are not cheap ~$200] you can get by with some needle nose players and a small amount of solder.

This is what you female pin with look like:


I hope this helps.

You will want to strip the insulation from the wire long enough that Tabs B will make contact with the wire but not to far so Tabs A will be over the insulation. Before inserting wires under tabs it makes it easier if you "Tin" the exposed wire. Tinning is adding a little solder to the heated wire so there is a thin coating over the strands. This will help hold the strands together, promote wetting when you add solder to the pin and pre-shrink the insulation so you can trim lead end to correct length.

Once that is done slide the wire under the tabs and carefully with needle nose pliers Roll Tabs A over and onto the insulation and give it a slight "crimp". You'll see the insulation displace slightly [be careful not to do too much and damage the insulation]. Once that is done do the same with Tabs B over the stripped and tinned strands. Make sure neither of the tabs extend past the width of the pin as if it is it will not insert correctly into the connector.

Once you have it "crimped" you will want to use a small solder iron and heat the pin and add just a tiny amount of solder to Tab B and the stranded wire below it. This will insure good electrical connection and provide more strength given you are not using the correct crimping tool.



You are shooting for a crimp cross section that looks like this:



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Old 10-22-2013, 05:32 PM   #17 (permalink)
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*whistle* yup not buying a crimp tool. crimps look ok on the cable. kinda sucks that I only need 1 or 2 but it will cost me $5 to ship the tiny things
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Old 10-23-2013, 08:20 AM   #18 (permalink)
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*whistle* yup not buying a crimp tool. crimps look ok on the cable. kinda sucks that I only need 1 or 2 but it will cost me $5 to ship the tiny things
Buy a bag make up pigtails and sell them to others?

What does the header on the board look like? If it is an open header I can make up an MTA pigtail that you can just splice into your harness [I have 2mm MTA female connectors on the bench at the moment]. MTAs will fit on an open [no sides] header but if it has sides they will not work.
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Old 10-23-2013, 11:19 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Buy a bag make up pigtails and sell them to others?

What does the header on the board look like? If it is an open header I can make up an MTA pigtail that you can just splice into your harness [I have 2mm MTA female connectors on the bench at the moment]. MTAs will fit on an open [no sides] header but if it has sides they will not work.
I'm not savvy enough to create them. Plus its the programming cable so it has a printer port to connect to a pc at the other end. Sadly it is a closed connection so the plug you linked above actually slides into a box like connector to make the connection.
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Old 10-30-2013, 03:06 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Software: Index of /pb/aka (I kept copies of all of it, this is my personal site mirror)

Cable -- I could loan you one if you pay shipping and a deposit. I'll refund the deposit when I get it back.
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